Linder's Garden Center

Attract Birds to Your Backyard

Invite birds to visit your garden! Our feathered guests provide entertainment, color, song and great bug control in season. Providing some of their basic needs will encourage birds to visit your garden space for your viewing enjoyment.

When deciding where to place food and water in your garden, look out into your garden from a favorite chair and a window that has a good overview of your yard or deck or other possible birding space. Being able to observe in comfort should be a prime consideration! And, yes, birds will visit apartment balconies!
Supply clean open water in all seasons. Use a heater or a heated bath in winter to keep the birdbath thawed. The sound of splashing water in warm weather will help birds find your birdbath quickly. There are a number of devices on the market to do this.
Provide food all year round. Birds remember where to find reliable sources of food. Put up several feeders using several types, several kinds of food, and group them in twos and threes so there are plenty of perches for all comers. Remember, most birds travel and feed in flocks.
Locate feeders and birdbaths in the open, several feet from cover that might hide predators, especially cats. The best sites are in sun and are sheltered from harsh winter winds. Trees, shrubs and fences located within 8 feet or so and higher than the feeders and baths will allow birds to check the area for enemies before landing and to escape quickly at need.
Clean and sanitize feeders and birdbaths regularly, more often in warm weather. Moldy food and dirty water can cause serious diseases in birds. Clean the ground under your feeders as well; spilled and dropped seed and hulls are likely to attract rodents as well as larger animals.

Bird watching is a great addition to your garden year. Enjoy!

Posted on February 14, 2013

Being Water Wise and Protecting Plants during Times of Drought

Responsible watering practices entail more than just the water you use and when you use it. Here are a few items to help you conserve water and help your plants survive a dry spell.

Mulch all shrubs and trees heavily with 2 to 3 inches of mulch, this is important in conserving soil moisture and keeping roots cool to reduce the stress on the plants. Perennials quality is greatly improved by mulching as well. Learn more about the benefits of mulching.

Water deeply and slowly allowing time for the water to soak into the ground and applying it at a rate that produces minimal runoff.

All plants should be watered thoroughly before mulching and a slow release fertilizer added at this time would be beneficial as well.

The best time to water is in the morning. The water has the best chance of soaking into the ground and the plants can utilize the water during the heat of the day. If this is not possible, make sure to water in the evening when the sun has gone from the area.

Do not allow established, mature trees to dry out when rain has been infrequent. Even well established trees can die because they did not receive enough water. All it takes to keep them alive is one deep watering a week.

Be sure and stop in to Linder's and pick up any items for your watering needs.

Posted on July 10, 2012

Bring House Plants in Now for Winter

If your house plants have been vacationing outside for the summer, get them back indoors now. The idea is to give them plenty of time to acclimate to your indoor environment BEFORE you close the windows and start the furnace for the winter season. Remember that a lower sun angle and fewer hours of daylight result in much less light in even the brightest south-facing window. And while coming into a toasty house on a snowy day feels wonderful to you, your plants may be struggling to breathe in crackling dry furnace-heated air.

Here are some steps to take to welcome your green friends back to their winter quarters:

Give your plants a bath. Rinse all the leaves – top and bottom - with a hearty shower from your garden hose. This bath washes away dust and many insect pests that may be enjoying residence on the plant. If the plant is large or in a heavy pot, try to not soak the root ball too much; big pots filled with wet soil can be quite heavy and awkward to handle. You may want to gently lean the plant over or tip it on its side to make this easier.

Treat for Bugs! Do this outside the very day you bring the plant indoors, even if you can’t see any creatures. There are always ‘hitchhikers’. Many insect pests are very small, even microscopic in size. They may be dormant or resting in egg form. Once inside your warm, comfy home, they resume life with gusto, multiplying generation after generation until by mid-winter or so there can be a huge population that is very difficult to eradicate.

Choose a product appropriate for the plant and your situation. Be sure to read and follow the label recommendations. Repeat the treatment through at least three cycles and continue to monitor your plants through the winter. Remember that outbreaks are much more easily prevented than cured, so consider additional precautionary treatments periodically through the winter. Any sign of stickiness on leaves, stems, pot or surface beneath the plant indicates an infestation and should be treated immediately.

There is a wide range of great products available. The knowledgeable staff at Linder’s can help you make a good choice.

Reduce watering frequency. When plants come indoors they will be entering a ‘resting’ phase in their annual cycle. Growth will slow considerably, and the plant may shed some leaves as it adjusts to the changed environment. Plants will not be using as much water as when actively growing, so water only when needed. Get your finger into the soil an inch or more. For most plants, the soil surface should be dry or very nearly so, and the soil at your finger tip should be just barely moist. Adjust the frequency according to the type of plant. For instance, cacti and succulents should be allowed to get very dry while ferns can be watered when the soil surface is still just barely moist. When you do water, do so thoroughly, until the root ball is wet, and some water runs out the drain in the bottom of the pot. If you are not sure your plant is thirsty enough, wait a day or two. Most of us ‘kill our plants with kindness’ by watering too often.

Reduce feeding. Resting plants will do better with minimal fertilizer during the winter months. Let an extra week or two go by in your feeding schedule and reduce the concentration of fertilizer by a third or even half. Consider alternating fertilizers with different nutrient ratios according to specific plant needs.

Increase light. Winter days in Minnesota are short and tend to be gray rather than sunny. Even plants normally considered ’low light’ will benefit from your brightest space. Consider using artificial lights to supplement the available light from your window. Plants that enjoyed full sun over the summer, especially herbs, are likely to be short-lived without the extra light. You can use one of the many attractive fixtures available for this purpose or something as simple as a desk lamp equipped with a CFL bulb. Aim for 12 hours of bright light each day. Do avoid drafty, cool window sills though; the combination of cold and damp soil is a real invitation for disease.

Even with supplemental light, your plants may get long and leggy, reaching for still more light. Feel free to pinch back the tips now and then to keep your plants well shaped. Consider rooting some cuttings too.

Increase Humidity. Furnace-heated air is notably dry. Try setting up a commercially available ‘humidity tray’ or make your own. Grouping your plants together in one smaller area or room to create a mini-environment is a good idea. Misting can help too.
Do use care to not group plants very tightly though; a lack of air circulation can invite disease.

House plants contribute so much to our winters, enhancing air quality and cheering our days. Following these few simple steps will keep your plants happy and healthy all season long!

Posted on September 14, 2012

Container Gardening- How to Care for Containers

combo pot Growing in containers has enjoyed a real surge in popularity in recent years. And, it’s no wonder! Possibilities for beautiful and useful container gardens are endless and limited only by your imagination.

Pre-planted container gardens are widely available or you can also plant your own. When choosing a container garden, keep in mind where it will be located, the number of hours of sun or shade available there and the purpose you have for it. Remember that container gardens can be that jewel spot of color on your front step, a stunning focal point in your lush garden, a froth of lacy blossoms for color and fragrance to enjoy on your patio table, a pot for a tomato or other veggies or herbs on your deck, or any combination of these. The important note here is that all the plants in your container must require the same light and moisture conditions to do well. Here are a few tips to keep your container garden looking its luxurious best.

Water: the bigger the pot, the easier it will be to keep it evenly moist. Be sure the container has an opening in the bottom so excess water can drain out. Don’t keep it soggy wet, but never let it go bone dry either. Pots in full sun will need to be checked especially often. Sun shining on the side of the pot on a hot afternoon can heat the soil to killing temperatures or dry it so quickly that you may need to water several times a day.

Fertilizer: Because the needed watering schedule for container gardens tends to flush nutrients out of the pot, most container gardens need frequent and regular feeding to maintain that full lush appearance. Feeding frequent diluted doses of fertilizer is preferable to one large dose every few weeks. Think "weakly-weekly", rather than once a month. Suit the type of fertilizer to the plants in the pot. For instance, color pots of annuals expected to bloom profusely should be fed a fertilizer labeled for blooming plants. Feed tomatoes tomato food on a regular schedule. On the other hand, herbs have best flavor when fed only once or twice a season with a minimum dose of balanced organic food. Check with our knowledgeable staff if you need guidance.

Deadhead, deadhead, deadhead!! Removing spent flowers before plants can waste energy setting seed, and pinching longer scraggly branches will result in a tidier, fuller container with more blossoms than letting your plants run away with themselves. Attention to deadheading is probably the most effective way to keep your container garden in prime condition. If your container is looking leggy and mostly green, cut it back by a third, feed it and give it a couple of weeks to recover.

Replace: Some plants are happier in the cooler ends of the season while others appreciate much warmer weather. Don’t be nervous about pulling out any plant that is looking tired or performing poorly. There are plenty of replacement plants available! Just a few minutes of effort can produce a pot with a fresh and fabulous new look!

Posted on June 27, 2012

Container Gardening: Choosing the Right Container

A container garden is the perfect way to accent any outdoor space, no matter how big. There are many options to choose from. Here are a few thing to think about when deciding what container is right for you…

What ‘look’ are you going for? Different materials and styles of containers can help you achieve that certain look.
Do you have space to store it indoors? Some materials cannot be left outside over the winter.
Does it provide drainage? Any container you purchase and intend to fill with soil must have holes in the bottom for drainage.
How much does it weigh? It might be a good idea to pick up some Vermiculite, packing peanuts, or an ‘Ups-a-Daisy’ to put into your container. This will cut down on the amount of soil needed and make your pot a bit more mobile.

Let’s Talk Materials…

Clay or Terracotta

These pots are typically the best option for plant health. The clay is breathable, so it allows more oxygen to enter the soil which provides an ideal environment for the root system. The downside, because the material is breathable it will need to be watered more frequently.They will also need to be taken out of the cold in the winter time as these pots can break when frozen.

Plastic

Plastic pots are less expensive than the majority of the other options. They are also light weight. The plastic containers give the clay and ceramic pottery a run for their money, there are some decorative plastic pots that look like beautiful stone. These pots may become brittle in freezing temperatures.



	Wood Wood containers are a great option if you’re after a more natural look. They can also be painted or stained whenever you’re ready for a new look. Wood containers are usually inexpensive and are safe outdoors during freezing temperatures. However, they must be made of a rot resistant wood or wood that has been treated to prevent decay.
Ceramic Glazed ceramic pottery comes in a wide range of colors, shapes and sizes. Ceramics will provide a more refined, classic look. These pots are some of the most beautiful options and will last a very long time. Because of the glaze, the pots are not porous so the moisture won’t be lost as quickly as a clay pot. These pots become fragile in freezing temperatures, unless the inside is also glazed. Linder’s Garden Center is proud to have one of the most outstanding displays of ceramic pottery in the Twin Cities, offering unique options and a wide variety of selection.

Show us what you’re up to! We love to see and hear all about the creative things you do in your garden. Post a picture on our Facebook page or Tweet us @GrowWithLinders.

Posted on May 14, 2012

Container Water Gardening For Small Spaces

Don’t let limited space prevent you from enjoying water gardening!
Even those with apartments can have a small water garden in a container.

A decorative glass bowl or dish can be transformed into a water garden by adding a floating water plant and a gold fish. Balconies or decks offer a great opportunity to add a small water feature such as a decorative water basin with plants and small fountain. An old vintage watering can or pail with water plants can be placed in your yard as a small, whimsical water garden.

1. Select a pot for your container water garden.	2. Cover the hole at the bottom with duct tape.

Anything with a basin can be used as a water garden container. If terra cotta pots are used, they need to be sealed on the inside with polyurethane; allowed to dry; and then sealed again. Ceramic pots with glazed interiors/exteriors do not need to be sealed. If the container has drainage holes, these need to be filled with plumber’s epoxy. First seal the hole on the exterior with tape; then press the epoxy firmly into the interior hole to avoid air pockets. Allow the epoxy to dry thoroughly. Once the epoxy dries, fill the container with water and let it sit for two to three days to check the seal and to allow the chlorine in the water to dissipate.

3. Seal hole with plumber's epoxy.	*4. Fill container with water and let sit for 2-3 days.*

You can now add plants to your basin or container. There are many possibilities of plants to use in water gardens from floating plants to Egyptian Papyrus for a dramatic background effect! You will want to incorporate oxygenating plants (such as Anachris and Vallisneria) into your water feature as these plants out compete algae for nutrients and help balance your small water feature.

5. Add plants and decorative stones.

If you chose to use a pump or fountain, place your container near an electrical source. It is important to use a ground fault interrupter (GFI), as well as a grounded electrical cord.

Mosquitoes can be averted by incorporating one of several methods such as: adding goldfish (they eat mosquito larvae), adding “Mosquito Dunks” which is a natural, safe way of minimizing mosquito populations; or utilizing a pump to keep the water moving. (Mosquitoes are not attracted to moving water, only still, quiet water.)

6. Choose a method to control mosquitos- a pump, goldfish, or 'Mosquito dunks.	7. Enjoy your water garden anywhere you want!

These are just a sampling of ideas for Urban Gardeners to consider.
Having a water feature does not require a lot of space, only imagination!

Stop by Linder’s Garden Center for help
to create your own water garden possibilities!

Posted on June 27, 2012

DIY Chia Pet: Mr. Caterpillar

What you’ll need:

About 5 cups potting soil Grass Seed Nylon Stocking Pipe Cleaners Pom Poms Googly Eyes

Step One:

Start by mixing the grass seed and soil in a large bowl.

Step Two: Scoop soil & seed mixture in nylon. Tie a knot in one of end of the nylon. Scoop about one cup into the nylon and then seal off that section tightly with a pipe cleaner. Repeat this step 5 times or until you run out of nylon.

Try not to do this…
When you’re finished with Step Two it should look like this:

Step Three:

Submerge the entire stocking in water
for 10 minutes.

Step Four:

Place in a plastic bag overnight.

Step Five:

Remove Mr. Catepillar from the plastic bag. Glue the eyes onto the stocking and stick the antennas on his head.

Step Six:

Leave Mr. Catepillar in a sunny spot and water generously every other day.
He should start to sprout ‘hair’ in a few days!

Posted on July 24, 2012

DIY Cut & Dry Hydrangea Flowers

Hydrangeas are beautiful in your yard and can easily be dried and enjoyed all winter long.

Step 1: When your hydrangeas start to turn pink, cut stems as long as possible.
	Step 2: Strip off the leaves.
Step 3: Bind 2 or 4 stems together.
	Step 4: Hang in a cool dry place.

When your hydrangeas have dried, use them in arrangements. They are great in spruce top pots and will last many months.

cut & dry hydrangea flowers

Posted on September 24, 2012

DIY Garden Impressions in Clay

You can make impressions in clay for decorating, jewelry or just for fun.

All you need is some Sculpy Clay, wax paper, a rolling pin (a jar or anything flat) and your imagination!

clay impressions

Grab the kids, go out in the yard and find some interesting materials.
Look for things that have a lot of texture.

Take your pieces of clay roll them into balls or other shapes, put them on wax paper and flatten them. Use a rolling pin, or flatten with a flat object.

diy clay impressions

Arrange your leaves and flowers on them.

diy clay impressions

Put wax paper over them and press them into the clay by using the rolling pin.

diy clay impressions

Remove the wax paper and take off your leaves and flowers.

diy clay impressions

You should have beautiful impressions. The fun part is if you don’t like your results, reflatten and do it again. When you have what you like, you can put a hole in the top with a tooth pick or nail.

diy clay impressions

Follow the instructions on your clay for hardening.
Mine are baked in a 275 degree oven for 15 minutes.

diy clay impressions

When hard, add a string or bow, you could even paint them if you like and you have beautiful ornaments, pendants to hang or display.

diy clay impressions

Posted on August 17, 2012

DIY Pallet Garden

Pallet gardens have been all the rage! These gardens are a great way to add color and interest in small spaces. They are also great if you are tired of the same old container gardens and pots. Let’s start checking off those items and ideas you’ve pinned on Pinterest, bookmarked, or added to the ‘to-do’ list.

What you need:

Staple Gun – borrow one from the neighbor if you don’t have one at home. It makes the project much easier.
Pallet - Buy one at our Garden Center in St. Paul!
Landscape Fabric – or something similar. My piece was somewhere around 8’ x 7’.
Soil – I used 2-40 quart bags of soil and then a little more for good measure
Plants – Pick anything you like, make one for sun, shade, veggies, herbs, fruits, etc…

Here’s how it’s done:

Step 1. Find a Pallet No two pallets look alike. Pallets can be heavy or light, new or old, painted or unpainted, etc. The beauty of pallets is that each one is unique. Don’t worry about what it looks like too much, it will be covered in plants by the time your finished with it. We now sell them at our Garden Center in St. Paul. The one I have is a particularly beat up pallet. I chose this one because I wanted to show that even the ugliest of pallets can be turned into something beautiful! Go ahead and clean it up a little bit. You can scrub it down if you feel the need. I removed a few boards and pulled out some rusty nails.
Step 2. Cover the Pallet in Fabric I used an old scrap of landscape fabric that our landscape department deemed unusable. It was an awkwardly shaped piece but it worked out perfect for what I was doing. You’ll want to use a similar fabric type, something strong that will allow water to drain through. I’ve seen a few others that used burlap but I wasn’t sold that it would be strong enough to hold all that soil.
Step 3. Secure the Fabric to the Pallet I have never done this before, so I used an obscene amount of staples. Start out by stapling the fabric to both sides of the pallet. I stretched mine so that it was tight, but not too tight to pull the staples out.
I decided not to staple my fabric all the way to the front edge of the pallet because I didn’t want the black fabric to be too noticeable. Once I finished my first line of staples, I flipped the excess material over the edge and stapled it to the back of the pallet for extra support. (Like I said before, I used an obscene amount of staples on this project!)
This is what my pallet looked like after I finished stapling the sides. I had a lot of excess fabric to work with for the bottom portion, which turned out to be a good thing because I didn’t exactly have a plan for that part yet…
I debated a few different ways to do this part but ended up trimming my fabric and cutting a slit down the middle so I could maneuver around the center board of the pallet.
Next, I wrapped the fabric around the bottom board. Each flap went up and over the bottom board and was stapled to the top edge. If you figure out a better way to do this, give it a try.
“Hmmm, I better add a few more staples over here… just in case.” One side done, on to the next!
I secured any extra fabric to the back of my pallet in the hopes of getting extra support. I also decided to staple the fabric to the top of the pallet.
It’s ready for some soil!
Step 4. Add Soil Once you’ve got your fabric secured, you can fill up your pallet with soil. I had 3 of our 40 quart bags of Linder’s ProThrive Potting Mix. I used 2 full bags and then maybe ¼ of the third one to top it off.
Step 5. Add the Plants! Now for the fun part! I chose three different types of plants: 1. Alyssum 2. Flowering Cabbage 3. Petunias I chose plants that wouldn’t get too tall. I started with the shortest plants near the top and then gradually worked my way down mixing in a few of the shorter plants in with the tall ones here and there. Do you want to know the trick to pallet gardens? Put a lot of plants in there! The more plants you add, the more roots there will be to hold the soil together.

Step 6. Let It Grow

After you plant everything in the pallet, leave it lying down for about a week. The roots of the plants play a major part in holding all the soil together, so give them sometime to grab on. I moved mine into the rocks to avoid killing the precious grass it was laying on.

After you give it some time, slowly stand the pallet into a vertical position & enjoy your beautiful garden!

pallet garden

Posted on June 12, 2012

DIY Pretty Pots

pretty pots supplies Dress up those average terra cotta pots with something more eye catching! This is an easy project that you can do at home in less than an hour.

What you’ll need…

Terra Cotta Pots
Fabric
Paint brush or foam brush
Mod Podge

I have never purchased Mod Podge before so I wasn’t sure what kind to buy. I ended up getting two different kinds, one for hard surfaces (like clay) and another that is water resistant and safe for outdoor use.

I got my fabric at a craft store that many of you have probably heard of. Each square is 18” x 21” and cost me a whopping 89 cents (hence, why I have so many of them…)

Note: Using striped patterns might end up looking different than you expect. As you can see with my pots, the curve of the pot does not cooperate with the straight edge of the stripe.

Step 1. Glue the fabric onto the pot.

Trim your fabric so that is will fit around your pot, but leave 1-2 inches at the top and bottom. I glued the fabric onto the pot using the Mod Podge for hard surfaces. Do this in small sections as the Mod Podge will dry fairly quick.

Step 2. Glue the fabric to the top & bottom of the pot.

Cut slits every inch around the top and bottom of the pot so the fabric will lie flat. Then, glue each flap down.

Step 3. Apply the outer coat

Apply a coat of the mod podge all over the outside of the pot.. You don’t have to wait for your pot to dry before you do this. I used the outdoor mod podge so mine should be water proof. This also gave the pot a nice sheen.

Step 4. Let it dry!

Allow your pot to dry overnight. Once it’s dry, enjoy!

pretty pots

Posted on February 7, 2013

DIY Terrarium

Terrariums are a fun way to add plants to your environment. You can create a terrarium in just about any clear container. For this particular project, I made mine in a lantern that I purchased at a well-known, over-whelmingly large furniture store. You could create one in a candle holder, a vase, mason jars, candy jars, I’ve even seen one in the base of a lamp! The potential container should have a no cover or a cover that can be removed so you can water the terrarium.

There are a few things you’ll need to get started…

Soil – a High quality sterile soil is preferred. The best kind to use is a peat-lite mix because it’s light and well drained.
Charcoal – If you’re using a jar or some other container that doesn’t have holes to drain water, you’ll need this. Linder’s carries horticultural charcoal specifically for containers without drainage.
Sand or Gravel – This will add extra drainage.
Sphagnum Moss – This will go at the very bottom of the container to act as a sponge.
Soil Cover – (optional) Grab some river rocks, colored moss or use the left over sphagnum moss to add a more decorative look to your terrarium.
Plants – this is obvious. However, the kinds of plants that you should use is not so obvious. Linder’s carries the cutest little plants specifically for Terrariums and mini-gardens. They come in the tiny pots with a tiny price!
Container – as mentioned earlier, there are a number of options. Use anything you’d like or pick up a container at your favorite garden center.

Now that you have everything you need, it’s time to put it all together.

1. Prepare the base Arrange a layer of sphagnum moss on the bottom of the container.
Next, add a thin layer of the sand/gravel.
Then spread a half-inch layer of charcoal chips on top of the sand.
Finally, top the charcoal layer with 1-2 inches of soil.
2. Add the plants: If you have a hard time maneuvering or can’t fit your hand in the container, use a tweezers or a straightened coat hanger with aloop on one end. Be careful not to damage the plant roots. Once the plant is in place, firm a little additional soil around the base.
3. Add the finishing touches: now is the time to add your soil cover if you have some. You can be as creative as you’d like with this. Turn it into a Fairy Garden or create a little path with rocks through it.

Taking Care of your Terrarium

Terrariums are perfect for indoors because they like indirect sunlight. A north or north-east facing window is great. Add water only when the soil is starting to dry but only sparingly. I used the sprayer on my sink with the water turned down low to water mine. If the glass looks misty, if water pools at the bottom or if mold forms on the surface, the moisture level is too high. If you terrarium has a cover, remove it for a day to dry it out a little bit. Most of the high quality fertilizers already container fertilizer, so you won’t need to add any more. If your plant begin to outgrow the container, trim them back to keep their shape.
Enjoy your terrarium all year long!

Posted on January 2, 2013

DIY- Planting An Amarylis Bulb

Amaryllis are easy to grow. Here's how.
You'll need a pot, potting soil and of course an amaryllis bulb.
Loosen the roots.
Put a few inches of potting soil in the pot and add the bulb.
Place in the center of the pot.
Fill with more potting soil covering about 2/3 of the bulb.
Pat down the soil.
Water with lukewarm water.
You are finished. Water sparingly until you see the tip of the bud appear. Then keep slightly moist, never wet. Place in sunny warm location.
Soon you will see a bud appear. In 8 to 10 weeks you will have a beautiful flower.

Posted on December 16, 2012

DIY: Color Your World Valentine's

This is a fun project to do with kids
because if you have kids you probably have a box of crayons.

Supplies needed: Heart Shaped Mold ( I used a silicone mold) Crayons Card Stock Paper
Remove paper from crayons. Any colors. Group by color or just mix them up.
Break into small pieces and place in baking mold. Bake at 250 degrees for approximately 15 minutes.
Let them cool completely. Pop out of the mold.
Cut out heart shapes or circles from card stock.
Attach with glue dots or double sided tape. Add a ribbon if you like.

Now wasn’t that simple! DIY: by Lill Linder

Posted on February 1, 2013

DIY: Spruce Top Pot

Watch this video or read the step-by-step instructions below for this easy Do-It-Yourself project for the holiday season!

1. Start with a pot. Any pot will do. Fill with soil or maybe you have one with soil from the summer.
2. Pick your tallest spruce top for the center.
3. Put 4 spruce tops around it. (Add more for bigger pots)
4. Add some assorted greens, cedar bows, and different types of evergreens.
5. Look around your yard. There are many interesting things in your own back yard. These hydrangea flowers I just cut off the shrub in my yard. It is good to put them in groups of 3 or odd numbers.
6. Here are some Sedum tops. They add a little color.
7. The red twigs are from my dogwood bushes. There are many things that can be added for interest. Let your imagination run wild.
Spruce top pots are easy to make.

Posted on November 21, 2012

DIY: Terrarium

Terrariums are a fun way to add plants to your environment. You can create a terrarium in just about any clear container. For this particular project, I made mine in a lantern that I purchased at a well-known, over-whelmingly large furniture store. You could create one in a candle holder, a vase, mason jars, candy jars, I’ve even seen one in the base of a lamp! The potential container should have no cover or a cover that can be removed so you can water the terrarium.

There are a few things you’ll need to get started…

Soil – a High quality sterile soil is preferred. The best kind to use is a peat-lite mix because it’s light and well drained.
Sand or Gravel – This will add extra drainage. You can also add a layer of charcoal at the very bottom to help with this.
Soil Cover – (optional) Grab some river rocks, sand, colored moss or use the left over sphagnum moss to add a more decorative look to your terrarium.
Plants – this is obvious. However, the kinds of plants that you should use is not so obvious. Linder’s carries the cutest little plants specifically for Terrariums and mini-gardens. They come in the tiny pots with a tiny price!
Container – as mentioned earlier, there are a number of options. Use anything you’d like or pick up a container at your favorite garden center.

Now that you have everything you need, it’s time to put it all together.

terrarium DIY accents

1. Prepare the base: Pour a thin layer of small river rocks in the jar. Pour a thicker layer of soil over the top of the river rocks.

2. Remove plants from pots. Gently remove top layer of soil or pebbles.

terrarium DIY accents

3. Lower plants into terrarium and arrange as desired.

4. Add a small layer of soil to support the plants.

terrarium DIY accents

5. Pour sand in slowly around the outer edges of the jar. Use your hand to keep sand off the plants until you completely cover the potting soil. Give your container a gentle shake to even the surface of sand around the plants.

terrarium DIY accents

6. Add the finishing touches: add larger rocks or other fun touches to make your terrarium unique!

Taking Care of your Terrarium

Terrariums are perfect for indoors because they like indirect sunlight. A north or north-east facing window is great. Add water only when the soil is starting to dry but only sparingly. I used the sprayer on my sink with the water turned down low to water mine. If the glass looks misty, if water pools at the bottom or if mold forms on the surface, the moisture level is too high. If you terrarium has a cover, remove it for a day to dry it out a little bit. Most of the high quality fertilizers already container fertilizer, so you won’t need to add any more. If your plant begin to outgrow the container, trim them back to keep their shape.

Enjoy your terrarium all year long!

Posted on March 15, 2013

Freezing Fruits & Vegetables

When summer gives you loads of fresh fruits and vegetables...
Freeze them!

Freezing is a simple and quick way to preserve fruits and vegetables at home. Simply select fruits and vegetables at their peak of freshness, follow recommended methods and you will get high-quality, nutritious foods for year-round enjoyment. It’s easy!

Tips for Freezing Fruits

Freeze when they’re at their peak of freshness.
Store in heavy-weight, air-tight containers or freezer bags. Fill containers to the top and remove as much air as possible from freezer bags..
For better texture, try eating frozen fruit before it’s completely thawed.
Freeze quickly- best at 0-degrees F or colder.
Eat frozen fruits within about a year. (Storing longer is fine, but the quality may decline.)

	Apples Select firm-fleshed cooking varieties, especially those suitable for pies or sauces. Wash in cold water, peel, core, and cut into pie slices. An ascorbic acid powder to prevent browning of fruit may be used. Follow package directions. Fill container, seal, label, date, and freeze. OR: Soak apples slices in brine solution (1/2 cup salt to 1 gallon of water) for 15 minutes. Drain. Pack in sugar syrup using 2 cups sugar and 1/2 teaspoon ascorbic acid to 1-quart water. OR: Wash whole apples drain and dry. Place in freezer bags and freeze. To use immediately for pie, sauce or other cooked dessert, run cold water over each frozen apple just before peeling. Peel slice and use immediately.
	Blackberries, Blueberries, Boysenberries, Gooseberries, Loganberries, Raspberries Wash in cold water and sort For pies, pack berries dry without sugar. Tip: Arrange them in a single layer on a baking sheet. Once frozen, transfer to a plastic freezer bag or container. OR Pack in sugar syrup using 3 cups sugar dissolved in 1-quart water and sort. OR: Crush and pack in sugar using 1-cup sugar to 7-8 cups fruit
	Pie Cherries Wash in cold water, stem and pit. For pies, use 1 1/2 to 2 cups sugar to 4 cups cherries for 9 inch pie. To improve color, add 1/4 teaspoon ascorbic acid.
	Sweet Cherries Wash in cold water, sort, and remove stem and pit. Pack in syrup using 2 cups sugar dissolved in 1-quart water, 1/2 teaspoon ascorbic acid and either 1-teaspoon citric acid or 4 teaspoons lemon juice.
	Cranberries Wash in cold water and sort and pack without sugar.
	Currants Wash in cold water and sort. Pack in sugar using 1-cup sugar to 8-9 cups fruit. For cooking, pack dry without sugar.
	Muskmelon/Cantaloupe Wash in water. Cut flesh into 1/2 to 3/4 inch cubes or balls. Cover with sugar syrup, using 2 cups sugar dissolved in 1-quart water. You can add whole seedless grapes. Serve partially frozen.
	Rhubarb Select stalks that are crisp and tender and of good red color in spring. Do not pick after July 4th. Remove leaves and woody ends, wash in cold water and cut in 1-inch lengths. Do not blanch. For sauce, pack in sugar syrup using 3 1/2 cups sugar dissolved in 1-quart water. For pies, pack in dry sugar using 1-cup sugar to 4 cups rhubarb, or pack without sugar for a few months storage.
	Strawberries Choose firm, ripe berries of bright red color, or rich aromatic flavor. Wash in cold water, sort and stem. Pack whole, sliced (preferred), or crushed berries in 1 cup sugar to 7-8 cups fruit. OR: Pack whole berries in syrup, 3-4 cups sugar dissolved in 1 quart water.

Click here to view this U of MN video on "Freezing Fruit for Sweet Success"

Tips for Freezing Vegetables

Freeze veggies when they’re at their peak of freshness.
Blanch first, then submerge in ice water. Dry thoroughly.
Store in heavy-weight, air-tight containers or freezer bags. Fill containers to the top and remove as much air as possible from freezer bags.
Vegetables that hold up well to cooking (corn, peas) generally freeze well, too.
Freeze quickly- best at 0-degrees F or colder.
Eat frozen vegetables within about 18 months. (Storing longer is fine, but the quality may decline.)

Blanching:

Use one gallon of water for each pound of vegetable except for leafy greens, which need 2 gallons per pound.

Bring water to a rolling boil. Immerse wire basket or blanching mesh bag containing vegetable.

Cover kettle and boil at top heat the required length of time. Begin counting time as soon as you place the vegetable in water. You may use the same blanching water 2 or 3 times. Keep it at required levels and change the water if it becomes cloudy.

Cool immediately in ice water for the same time used for blanching. Keep water icy cold. Drain vegetables thoroughly. Extra water will form too many ice crystals.

Pack, label and freeze.

Beans, Green and Yellow Podded

Pick young tender beans that snap when broken. Harvest while seeds are small and tender.

Wash, snip off tips, and sort for size. Cut or break into suitable pieces or freeze whole.

Blanch 3 1/2 minutes. Chill in ice water.

Beans, Lima

Pick well-filled pods containing green, young tender beans (white beans are over-matured).

Wash, shell and sort.

Blanch small and medium beans, 3 minutes; large beans, 4 minutes. Chill in ice water.

Beets

Use garden varieties of good color and quality. Pick smooth, tender small to medium beets.

Remove tops leaving 2 inches of top and wash. Cook until tender. Chill. Remove skins. Slice or dice large beets.

Broccoli

Choose firm, tender stalks with bright green compact heads. Discard off-color heads or any that have begun to blossom and remove tough leaves and woody ends.
Cut through stalks lengthwise, leaving heads 1 inch in diameter.
Soak 1/2 hour in salt brine (1/2 cup salt to 1 quart water) to drive out small insects. Rinse and drain.
Blanch 4 minutes in water or steam-blanch 5 minutes. Chill in ice water.
Pack heads and stalk ends alternately in container. Broccoli may be cut into chunks or chopped.

Brussel Sprouts

Pick firm, compact heads of good green color. Wash and trim.

Soak 1/2 hour in salt brine (see Broccoli). Rinse and drain.

Blanch medium heads 4 minutes, large heads 5 minutes. Chill in ice water.

Carrots

Pick smooth, tender carrots before roots become woody. Harvest in cool weather.
Cut off top, wash and scrape. Dice or slice 1/4 inch thick. Blanch 3 1/2 minutes. Chill in ice water.

Cauliflower

Use well-formed, compact heads with fresh leaves. Trim and wash.

Split heads into individual pieces 1 inch in diameter.

Soak a 1/2 hour in salt brine (see broccoli). Rinse and drain.

Blanch 4 minutes. Chill in ice water.

Sweet Corn, on-the-cob

Harvest early in morning in hot weather. Small to medium cobs are preferred. If corn is immature, it is watery when cooked; if too mature, it is doughy.

Process rapidly. Husk and trim ends.

Use a large kettle for blanching. Corn that is not thoroughly cooled may become mushy. The long blanching time is necessary to inactivate enzymes that are in the cob. The long cooling time is needed to chill the cob.

Use 12 quarts water for 24 Midget Ears (1 1/2 inch or less in diameter). Blanch 8 minutes and cool 16 minutes.

14 Small Ears (1 1/4 inch - 1 1/2 inch in diameter)- Blanch 8 minutes and cool 16 minutes

10 Med. to Large Ears (over 1 1/2 inch in diameter)- Blanch 11 minutes and cool 22 minutes

Sweet Corn, cut off cob

Remove silks and trim ends. Use a large kettle.

Blanch whole kernel corn to be cut from the cob 4 1/2 minutes and cool 9 minutes.

Eggplant

Precooked eggplant is usually more satisfactory for freezing than blanched eggplant.

Peel, cut into 1/2 inch slices, or dice. To retain light color, drop pieces immediately into cold water containing 4 tablespoons salt per gallon for 4 to 6 min.

Blanch 4 1/2 minutes. Chill and package in layers separated by sheets of freezer paper.

Herbs

Wash and drain, but do not blanch leaves.
Place clean, whole or chopped herbs into freezer bags. Or, puree herbs in blender with oil or water, and place in ice cube trays.
Generally, blend 2 cups of washed foliage to 1 1/2 cups of water, or 6 cups of foliage to 1/2 cup of oil.

Kohlrabi

Using young, tender kohlrabi, cut tops, wash, peel and dice in 1/2 inch cubes

Blanch 2 1/2 minutes. Chill in ice water.

Mushrooms

Wash and remove stem base.

Freeze small mushrooms whole; cut large ones into 4 or more pieces.

When blanching mushrooms, add 1-teaspoon citric acid (or 3 teaspoons lemon juice or 1/2 teaspoon ascorbic acid) per quart of water to prevent darkening.

Blanch medium or small mushrooms 4 minutes; cut pieces, 3 minutes. Cool.

Onions

Sweet Spanish types are best. Peel onions, wash and cut into quarter sections. Chop.

Blanch 1 1/2 minutes. Chill in ice water. They will keep 3-6 months.

Peas, Green English

Pick bright green crisp pods with tender, sweet peas, but not over mature.

Wash, shell small amount at a time. Blanch 1 1/2 or 2 minutes. Chill in ice water.

Pea Pods

Select bright green, flat tender pods. Wash, remove stems, blossom ends, and any string. Leave whole.

Blanch 2 1/2 to 3 minutes. Chill in ice water.

Peppers, Bell

Wash, cut out stem and remove seeds. Halve, slice or dice.

Blanch halved peppers, 3 minutes, sliced or diced ones, 2 minutes. Chill in ice water. (You can freeze chopped peppers without blanching them).

Potatoes

Wash, peel, and remove deep eyes, bruises, or green surface coloring. Cut in 1/4 to 1/2 inch cubes.

Blanch for 5 minutes. Cool.

For French fries a russet potato is best. Cut in thin strips, fry in deep fat until very light golden brown, drain and cool.

Pumpkin

Cut or break into fairly uniform pieces. Remove seeds.

Bake at 350 F, or steam until tender. Cool and scoop pulp from rind then mash or put through a ricer. You can prepare pie mix for freezer, but omit cloves.

Spinach & Other Greens

Select young, tender leaves. Sort and remove tough stems and wash.

Blanch most leafy greens 2 minutes.

Blanch collards and stem portions of Swiss chard 3 to 4 minutes.

Blanch very tender spinach 1 1/2 minutes. Chill in ice water.

Summer Squash-Zucchini

Select when 5-7 inches long and rind is tender. Wash, peel and cut in pieces. If skin is tender, you do not need to peel.
Blanch 1/4 inch slices, 3 minutes; 1 1/2 inch slices, 6 minutes. Chill in ice water

Tomatoes, cooked

Select firm, ripe tomatoes. Wash, core, cut and cook until soft.

Tomato, juice, puree

Select firm, ripe tomatoes. Wash, core, and cut into pieces. Simmer about 5 minutes and put through food mill to juice. Cool. For puree, cook juice until concentrated to about half its volume.

Winter Squash

Select squash with shells so hard you cannot push your thumbnail through them.

Prepare same as pumpkin. You can blend two or more varieties together or blend squash with pumpkin.

Click here to view this U of MN video on "Freezing Vegetables for Tasty Results"

Enjoy your fruits and veggies!

Posted on August 24, 2012

Fresh Cut Christmas Tree Varieties

What could be more symbolic of the Christmas Holiday than a lush fresh-cut green tree, scented with that deep-forest piney tang! Festooned with sparkling lights and ornaments galore, both heirloom and whimsical, a perfect Christmas tree is what Holiday memories are made of. Linder's Garden Center carries a great variety of fresh cut Christmas trees to suit your special tradition.

Following is a listing of available varieties and some virtues of each as well as their flocking capabilities.

Fraser Fir: This tree is one of the best at needle retention of all the trees Linder’s carries. Its strong branches are curved slightly upward to give it a full and lush appearance. It has short, dark green needles and a classic holiday scent. Our Fraser Firs are grown in northern Wisconsin. It is a great choice for flocking.

Balsam Fir: Renowned for its rich fragrance and classic shape, Balsam Firs represent the traditional Christmas tree of your childhood. Neatly spaced branches make decorating a delight and its soft, short flat needles give it a feathery appearance. It is native to Minnesota and Wisconsin. It is a wonderful choice for flocking.

Grand Fir: This variety is grown in the Cascade Mountains. It has a unique citrus aroma and is one of the most fragrant trees Linder’s carries. This beautifully shaped tree has good needle retention. This tree looks beautiful lightly flocked.

Noble Fir: This tree is grown in the Cascade Mountains of Washington. It has a wonderful fragrance. Its excellent needle retention makes this tree a wonderful choice. Its sturdy branches are great for hanging all sizes of beautiful ornaments. It can be flocked.

Canaan Fir: Also known as ‘Concolor’ Fir, this variety exhibits traits of several of our most popular trees. A Canaan Fir has the smaller, lighter trunk and treasured Christmas fragrance of a Balsam and the slightly up-curved branch structure of a Fraser. Its needles have a lovely silvery underside. Our Canaan Firs are grown in northern Wisconsin and can be flocked.

Scotch Pine: A full appearing tree with dark green needles. Its stiff branches make it an ideal tree for hanging ornaments. It will hold its needles well for the holiday season. It is one of the varieties that are painted green in the growing field because its needles naturally turn yellow in the fall. Flocking is not recommended.

White Pine: This tree has soft, green needles, which gives it a full and graceful appearance. It has good needle retention. Its needles are also painted green in the growing field because the needles naturally yellow in the fall. Because it does not have stiff branches, it should not be flocked.

Red/Norway Pine: This is the Minnesota state tree. Its sturdy branches hold ornaments well. Its long, elegant needles turn bronze in the fall so it also needs to be painted green.

Douglas Fir: This fir tree has soft needles that give off a sweet scent when crushed. It has great needle retention. Because it does not have stiff branches, flocking is not recommended

Flocked Trees: Out of all these varieties of trees, the Fraser and Balsam Firs have the best branch structure to support flocking. A flocked tree does not need to be watered unless it is given only a light flocking to resemble a fresh snowfall. The flocking compound is made from wood fiber, a flame retardant and glue, which allows the tree to last throughout the holiday season.

Posted on November 18, 2012

General Orchid Care

orchid Long considered the darlings of flowering plants for their exotic appearance, orchids are relatively easy to grow. They are available in nearly endless flower types and colors. The blossoms tend to be long-lasting and many are fragrant.

When purchasing, consider choosing a plant in bloom so you are familiar with the flower style, color and any fragrance. Small seedling plants can take several years to reach blooming size, but are often worth the wait.

Light: Orchids need bright light, as much as they can take without burning. Foliage should be yellow-green, not dark green. A southern exposure in winter and eastern in summer are best.

Feeding: Most orchids will flourish on monthly fertilizer applications. Most literature recommends this schedule. This is often more than what is needed, so if you forget, mark your calendar, skip a month and resume the next month. Use food specifically labeled for orchids; do not use one containing urea, a form of nitrogen.

Humidity: Humidity should be 40% to 60%. Group plants together or provide a humidity tray to make a ‘mini environment’ for your orchid.

Water: Let the potting medium dry thoroughly, then water copiously enough that water runs out the drain holes. Consider a 10 minute dunk once or twice a year, especially if your orchid is in a clay pot. How often you should water will depend on the season of the year and the environment in your home.

Temperature: Temperature ranges vary between orchid varieties. Most often our normal yearly temperatures suffice. To encourage your plant to bloom, the temperature should drop 10 to 20 degrees at night, since orchids prefer warm days but cooler nights. .

Potting: Most orchids do not grow in soil. In the wild they grow attached to trees or rocks or decaying plants. Roots take moisture and nutrition directly from the air, so they need plenty of air circulation both above ground and below. In your home, use a potting medium labeled for use with orchids such as bark chips appropriate for the orchid variety you have. Site in space with good air movement .A room with a ceiling fan is good.

Orchids are relatively free of insect and disease problems. Watch for stickiness anywhere on the plant or pot. This might indicate insect pests such as mealy bug, scale, or spider mites on your plant. Insecticidal soaps should keep these in check.

Growing orchids can be habit forming! Consider joining a local orchid club to connect with fellow enthusiasts. Contact Linder's for helpful growing assistance.

Posted on January 21, 2013

Growing Herbs Indoors

herbs drying For those of us who like to play both indoors and out, herbs are one group of plants that we can be grow and enjoy all year long. They are known for their versatility in cooking, to adorn your living space and used for home remedies. The best chance for success with some of the herbs indoors during the winter is to start new plants from seed or cuttings. In order for herbs to make sufficient leaf growth during the winter months, plants must have plenty of sunlight and temperatures maintained well above freezing at all times. Don't expect them to grow with the same vigor as they would outdoors but they will grow well enough to provide you with the freshest herbs that you cannot compare anywhere else. Herbs, while very tolerant in the garden, are less tolerant than most houseplants. They do need certain growing conditions.

New Plants From Seed

Start with some of the easiest: basil, chives, coriander, dill, parsley, marjoram, sage, summer savory and thyme.
Using 4 inch diameter pots, start by filling the pots to within an inch of the rim using a premium quality seedling potting soil.
Make a small depression in the center using the eraser end of a pencil or you fingertip.
Gently shake about three seeds out of the packet, making sure they land in your slight depression.
Gently sprinkle a little bit more soil over the seeds to ensure direct contact with the soil.
Water well and place in a sunny location, either under grow lights or a southern window.
Keep soil moist to the touch until seeds germinate. Sometimes it may help to make a small tent over your pot using a sandwich baggies and a few toothpicks to hold the cover off your seedlings as they emerge.
Start tapering back on the amount you water. This will control some of the stretching that commonly happens to seedlings when grown indoors during the dark winter months.
As seedlings grow fertilize monthly with a Fish Emulsion solution to keep plants healthy.
Wait until plants develop a bit more before harvesting…Enjoy!

Taking Cuttings and Rooting Them

Some herbs are better started from cuttings: rosemary and sage are the ones most known.
Starting with the same size pot as above, fill to within an inch of the lip of the pot with the a premium quality potting mix.
Using a pencil, poke a hole down an inch into the potting mix. Set aside until next steps are taken.
It’s best to start with tip cuttings about 1 ½ inches long.
Strip off a few of the lower leaves, as they will rot off when placed in the soil if they are to be left on.
Grabbing the pot you just filled, place cutting down into the hole and gently firm the soil up to the stem (do not push down and compact the soil).
Take a baggie and cover the pot, creating a tent over your soil. Use toothpicks to hold the plastic up above the potting mix. This creates a humid environment for your cuttings to flourish.
Check your pots daily until a gently pull upward on the cutting creates some resistance.
Slowly acclimate your newly rooted cutting to the surrounding air by taking off the plastic bag for a few hours each day.

Light Requirements

Most herbs must have at least five hours of direct sunlight each day. Mint, Bay and Thyme prefer partial shade.
Natural sunlight can be supplemented or replaced with fluorescent lighting. A two-tube, cool white fixture hung 6 to 8 inches above the plant and left on for 14 to16 hours a day will keep herb plants healthy.

Temperature Requirements

Herb plants like cool temperatures. A daytime temperature of 65F to 70F and nighttime temperature of 55F to 60F are best.
Keep all plants at a fair distance from the windowpanes. The cold winter temps can damage foliage or may promote a leaf-type fungus.

Soil Requirements

Potted herbs appreciate a relatively rich potting soil that is well drained when watered.
Linder's Prothrive Potting Mix works incredibly well for all your indoor potting needs.
Provide a large enough pot for good root development.

Fertilization

Give your plants enough fertilizer to keep them productive but not so much that they lose their fragrant oils and grow too vigorously. Herbs produce the oils to protect the leaves from moisture loss and as a sunscreen to protect them from burning.
Feed once a month with fish emulsion at about half-strength.

Water Requirements

It is important to water herbs regularly being very careful not to overwater.
Water most herbs thoroughly when the surface soil is dry to about an inch down. In the case of mint, the soil needs to be kept slightly moist.
Always use room temperature water.
Allow the plants to dry out between watering.
Never allow soil to become waterlogged or pots to sit in water.

Air Circulation

A constant draft is deadly to herbs.
Give plants plenty of space so that air can circulate.
Do not let the foliage from one plant touch the neighboring plant. This can promote the movement of bugs from one plant to another and decrease the air flow around your herbs, promoting leaf fungus
If the air is very dry, set the pots on a pebble-lined tray filled with water, making sure the pots are resting on the pebbles and not sitting in the water. This will add humidity to the air surrounding the plant, as most homes tend to be dry in the wintertime.

Recommended Indoor Herbs:

Plant	Height	Light	Culinary Uses
Basil	18 inches	Full Sun	Pestos, soups, stews, tomato sauces, sausages
Chives	12-25 inches	Full Sun	Salads, egg dishes, soups, cream cheeses, cream sauces
Cilantro	15-18 inches	Full Sun	Leaves: meat, poultry, spicy sauces Seeds: soups, curries, pickling
Dill	3-4 feet	Full Sun	Leaves: fish (esp. salmon),yogurt, meat, vegetables Seeds: cakes, bread, fish, rice, pickling
Marjoram	9-12 inches	Full Sun	Pizza, spaghetti, tomato sauces, roasted meat or poultry, stuffing, cheeses, egg dishes
Mints	12-18 inches	Full Sun/Part Shade	Sauces, jellies, tea, desserts
Oregano	18 inches	Full Sun	Salads, herb seasoning mixtures, same uses as marjoram
Parsley	12-20 inches	Full Sun	Egg dishes, cream sauces, fish
Sage	18 inches	Full Sun	Salads, stuffing, meat, sausages, marinades
Summer Savory/ Winter Savory	18 inches	Full Sun	Lentil soup, salads, egg dishes, bean dishes, stuffing
French Tarragon	3 feet	Full Sun	Chicken, fish, omelettes, salads, butter sauces, flavored vinegar
Thyme	10-12 inches	Full Sun	Soups, stews, meat, fish, vegetables, game, salads, tomato sauces

Posted on February 17, 2013

Guide to Tomato Varieties

The varieties below are some of the 'tried and true' tomatoes we sell at Linder's.

Better Boy Height: 6-8 feet Spread: 2-3 feet Sun Exposure: Full Sun Fruit Bearing: Indeterminate Days to Maturity: 69-80 days Fruit Size: Medium Fruit Color: Red Use: Fresh, Slicing Disease resistant Acidic, strong ‘tomato’ taste
Big Beef Height: 8-10 feet Spread: 3-4 feet Exposure: Full Sun Fruit Bearing: Indeterminate Fruit size: medium (under 1 lb) Days to maturity: 69-80 days Fruit Color: red Use: Fresh, salad, slicing, canning Vigorous Disease resistant High yielding
Big Boy Height: 36-40 inches Spread: 18 inches Exposure: Full Sun Fruit Bearing: Indeterminate Fruit size: medium Days to maturity: 78 days Fruit Color: Red Use: Fresh, salad, slicing, canning This tomato is incredibly productive. Providing perfect, large red fruit that has a wonderful aroma and a rich flavor.
Celebrity Height: 2-4 feet Spread: 2-3 feet Exposure: Full Sun Fruit Bearing: Determinate Fruit size: medium Days to maturity: 69-80 days Fruit Color: Red Use: Fresh, salad, slicing, canning, drying A prolific, reliable variety.
Champion Height: 4-8 feet Spread: 2-3 feet Exposure: Full Sun Fruit Bearing: Indeterminate Fruit Size: Medium-large Days to maturity: 55-68 days Fruit Color: Red Use: Fresh, Salad, slicing, canning Tomato is slightly acidic, highly productive. Disease resistant
Early Girl Height: 6-8 feet Spread: 18-24 inches Exposure: Full Sun Fruit Bearing: Indeterminate Fruit Size: medium Days to maturity: 69-80 days Fruit Color: Red Use: Fresh, slicing Resistant to fusarium wilt and verticillium wilt. Sure to be one of the earliest producers of fruit. High yielding all season. Great taste.
Large Red Cherry Height: 8-10 feet Spread: 3-4 feet Exposure: Full Sun Fruit Bearing: Indeterminate Fruit Size: Small Days to maturity: 69-80 days Fruit Color: Pink, Red Use: Fresh, salad Classic cherry tomato with great favor. Very prolific producer of sweet tomatoes.
Roma Height: 1-3 feet Spread: 12-15 inches Exposure: Full sun Fruit Bearing: Determinate Fruit Size: Medium Days to maturity: 69-80 days Fruit Color: Red Use: Fresh, salad, canning Resistant to fusarium wilt Great for smaller gardens The vines are very productive and the tomatoes are great for cooking and sauces Very easy to grow!
Super Sweet 100 Height: 3-4 feet Spread: 2-3 feet Exposure: Full Sun Fruit Bearing: Indeterminate Fruit Size: Small Days to maturity: 55-68 days Fruit Color: Red Use: Fresh, salad Resistant to verticillium wilt & fusarium wilt Extremely sweet tomatoes that are often the first to ripen Will produce fruit into the fall Very easy to grow!
Beef Maestro Height: 6-8 feet Spread: 18-36 inches Exposure: Full Sun Fruit Bearing: Indeterminate Fruit Size: Medium-large Days to maturity: 69-80 days Fruit Color: Red Use: Fresh, salad, slicing Large red fruit, tasty, beefsteak tomato.
Lemon Boy Height: 6-8 feet Spread: 4-6 feet Exposure: Full Sun Fruit Bearing: Indeterminate Fruit Size: Medium Days to maturity: 69-80 days Fruit Color: Yellow Use: Fresh, salad, slicing Resistant to fusarium wilt, verticillium wilt and root nematodes. Lemon Boy is a very prolific plant that produces tons of uniform tomatoes.
Moby Grape Height: 2-3 feet Spread: 2-3 feet Exposure: Full sun Fruit Bearing: Determinate Fruit Size: Small Days to maturity: 69-80 days Fruit Color: Red Use: Fresh, salad Distinctively sweet tomatoes are delicious eaten by the handful right off the vine. Suitable for containers!
Red Grape Height: 6-8 feet Spread: 2-3 feet Exposure: Full Sun Fruit Bearing: Indeterminate Fruit Size: Smal Days to maturity: 69-80 days Fruit Color: Red Use: Fresh, salad, drying This tomato plant produces early and often, a very prolific plant. Very easy to grow.
Yellow Pear Height: 4-6 feet Spread: 4-6 feet Exposure: Full Sun Fruit Bearing: Indeterminate Fruit Size: Small (pear shaped) Days to maturity: 69-80 days Fruit Color: Yellow, gold Use: Fresh, salad These tomatoes have a sweet delicate taste, a very prolific plant. These tomatoes make a great garnish and will add a nice contrast with red cherry tomatoes in any dish.
Ground Cherry Height: 18-30 inches Spread: 24-36 inches Exposure: Full Sun to Partial Shade Fruit Bearing: Determinate Fruit Size: Small Days to maturity: 69-80 days Fruit Color: Greenish yellow Use: fresh, dessert, jam The buff yellow flowers produce a cherry tomato inside a papery husk. When ripe, the husk turns brown and the fruit drops from the plant. If left in the husk, it will keep for several weeks. This tomato has a pleasing and distinctive flavor.
Tomatillo Height: 3-4 feet Spread: 3-4 feet Exposure: Full Sun Fruit Bearing: Determinate Fruit Size: Medium Days to maturity: 69-80 days Fruit Color: Green/yellow/purple Use: fresh, salsas, sauces, cooking A unique and delicious flavor can be eaten raw or cooked. Very popular in salsas, sauces and as an ingredient in green chile. Has a nice tart flavor depending on when it is harvested.

Heirloom Tomatoes

Brandywine Red Height: 8-10 feet Spread: 2-3 feet Exposure: Full Sun Fruit Bearing: Indeterminate Fruit Size: Medium Days to maturity: 69-80 days Fruit Color: Red Use: Fresh, salad, slicing Good sized tomatoes that have an excellent meaty texture and fantastic flavor.
Campbells Height: 18-24 inches Spread: 24-36 inches Exposure: Full Sun Fruit Bearing: Determinate Fruit Size: Medium Days to maturity: 69-80 days Fruit Color: Red Use: Fresh, salad, canning Resistant to fusarium wilt, verticillium wilt and root nematodes. Highly productive, meaty tomato.
John Baer/Bonnie’s Best Height: 3-4 feet Spread: 2-3 feet Exposure: Full Sun Fruit Bearing: Indeterminate Fruit Size: Medium Days to maturity: 69-80 days Fruit Color: Red Use: Fresh, salad, canning Early to main season standard heirloom tomato. Indeterminate vines bear bright red, meaty, smooth fruit for fresh eating or canning.
Rutgers Height: 2-3 feet Spread: 2-3 feet Exposure: Full Sun Fruit Bearing: Indeterminate Fruit Size: Medium Days to maturity: 69-80 days Fruit Color: Red Use: Fresh, salad, slicing, canning Highly productive Easy to grow Flavor of the tomatoes is strong and slightly acidic. Great for growing in containers!

Posted on May 13, 2012

Herbs- Harvesting and Preserving

If you have herbs growing like crazy but just can’t use them fast enough, you are not alone!

Try these methods to harvest and preserve your herbs so they don’t have to go to waste.

Let’s start with harvesting…

1.   Cut healthy branches from your herb plants, remove any dry or diseased leaves, shake gently to remove insects.
2.   If necessary, rinse with cool water and pat dry with paper towels. Wet herbs will mold and rot.
3.   Remove the lower leaves along the bottom inch of the branch.

•   Herbs that will be used for cooking should be harvested just before the plant flowers. At this time in the plants life cycle, the oil content will be at it’s highest giving the herbs the best flavor. Two exceptions to this rule are French Tarragon and Sweet Bay which do not flower in the Minnesota climate.
•   Although herbs are most flavorful before they flower, you can certainly harvest them before this time to use fresh. This will also promote new growth, extra branching and over all a larger plant.
•   Anise, Caraway, Coriander and Dill are 4 herbs that can be harvested for their ripened seed heads. These seed heads will appear after the herbs finishes flowering.
•   When harvesting annual herbs, don’t be afraid to cut them back to about 4-5 inches from the grown wherever the plant looks healthy and lush.
•   First year perennial and biennial herbs shouldn’t be trimmed as often as annual herbs. These herbs need the energy from the leaves to promote healthy root growth for future success and larger, healthier plants in following years.
•   As a general rule of thumb, after the first year of growth and establishment, hardy perennial harbs should be harvested up to 2/3 of their growth in the spring and summer. No more than 1/3 of the herbs should be harvested in the fall.

Preserving…

	Screen drying: use a screen door or window, a wire rack, or a plastic tray with a grid bottom. Cover with paper towels, cheesecloth, muslin, or old nylons. Place herbs in a single layer on the tray and allow as much air as possible to flow around them by elevating the tray. Place the tray in a dark and dry location.
Bunch drying: hang tied bunches of herbs upside down on an indoor clothesline, pegs, nails, or drying rack in a dark and dry location.
	Bag drying: place bunched herbs in a paper bag and tie closed. Hang the bag upside down on an indoor clothesline, pegs, nails, or drying rack in a dry location.
Oven drying: briefly and cautiously finish drying herbs in a 100 degree Fahrenheit oven or 125-150 degree Fahrenheit oven with the door left open a bit. When herbs are dry from any of the above methods, they can be crushed, chaff discarded, and stored in airtight containers in a dark place.
	Freezing: place clean, whole or chopped herbs into freezer bags. Or, puree herbs in blender with oil or water, and place in ice cube trays. Generally, blend 2 cups of washed foliage to 1 1/2 cups of water, or 6 cups of foliage to 1/2 cup of oil. Store bags or cubes in freezer.

Storing…

Store dried herbs in air tight containers such as zip-loc bags or canning jars. Don’t forget to label and date them. Your herbs will retain more flavor if the leaves are stored whole and crushed just before use.
Discard any dried herbs that show the slightest sign of mold.
Place containers in a cool, dry place away from sunlight.
Dried herbs are best used within a year. As your hebs lose their color, they are also losing their flavor.
Use about 1 teaspoon crumbled dried leaves in place of a tablespoon of fresh herbs.

Common Herbs to Harvest and Preserve:

Herb	What and When to Harvest	How to Preserve
Anise	Flowers and leaves when seeds turn brown	Screen dry
Basil	Prune top 1/2 of plants whenever lush growth before flowering	Screen dry then oven crisp or freeze
Borage	Prune tops for early leaf harvest. Then, top half when flowering	Screen dry leaves, freeze flowers in ice cubes
Calendula	When flowering
Chamomile (annual)	Top 1/2 when flowers turn from gold to brown.	Screen dry or bag dry
Chamomile (perennial)	Prune as desired if for ground cover	Screen dry
Caraway	Seedheads when brown	Screen dry
Catnip	Top half early and late summer before blossoming	Bunch dry or bag dry
Chives	Snip outer leaves regularly all season; cut flowers in spring	Freeze in bags or ice cubes
Coriander	Foliage as needed, but allow some to go to seed	Bag dry seedheads or freeze
Dill	Top half of plants when seedheads are beige; may give foliage a light trim earlier	Bunch dry or freeze
Fennel	Whole plant when flowering; may give foliage a light trim earlier	Bunch dry or freeze
Lavender	Cut back top third of branches just before flowers open	Screen or bunch dry
Lemon Balm	Top half early, mid, or late summer before flowering	Bag dry or bunch dry
Lemon Verbena	Top half mid-summer and early fall before bringing inside	Screen dry
Marjoram	Top third mid-summer and early fall before flowering	Screen dry then oven crisp
Mints	Top half or more in late spring, mid-summer, and early fall	Bunch dry, bag dry, or freeze in ice cubes
Oregano	Cut top half in summer before flowering, then again in early fall	Bunch dry or bag dry then oven crisp
Parsley	Outer leaves when lush, leaving central growth	Bunch dry, oven crisp, or freeze in bags or ice cubes
Rosemary	Top one-fourth when established and lush	Screen dry or bunch dry
Sage	Prune top third in early spring and again in mid-summer	Screen dry, bunch dry, or freeze in bags
Savory (Summer)	Top half in mid-summer and early fall before flowering	Screen dry
Savory (Winter)	Prune tops lightly when lush growth in spring and summer	Screen dry
Sorrel	Cut back flowering stems for later crop	Use young leaves for cooking or freeze
Sweet Woodruff	Cut back half of plant when flowering in spring and repeat in early fall	Screen dry
Tarragon (French)	Prune top half in mid-spring, summer, and fall	Screen dry, freeze in bags or cubes
Thyme	Top third in spring, when lush, and before flowering	Screen dry

Posted on July 30, 2012

Japanese Beetles: Join the Battle against the Beetles!

Like it or not, we will be visited by Japanese Beetles again this summer. Introduced to our eastern coast decades ago, they have been munching in our direction ever since. Assisted by climate change, Japanese Beetles have adapted to our winters and will now be an annual adversary.

As disheartening as it can be to watch the devastation of lawns, roses, birch trees, grape vines and raspberry patches to name only a few, be assured that, unless plants are seriously stressed for some other reason, the Japanese Beetle attack will not kill your garden treasures. We may never eradicate these voracious and destructive pests, but there are some satisfying things we can do to minimize their numbers.

Japanese Beetles are about the size of your little fingernail. They are easily identified by their iridescent green-bronze wing covers and the six small tufts of white hairs along each side. They are serious pests in both the adult beetle and the larval grub stages. Adult beetles will eat almost any plant, though they do have preferences, skeletonizing leaves to a lace work. They are above ground, feeding, mating and laying eggs from perhaps mid June to early August. Be aware that they can fly! The white ‘C’ shaped grubs spend most of the rest of the growing season eating the roots under your lawn, resulting in brown patches that increase in size with time. Fortunately there is only one brood each year.

One organic method of control is to simply hand-pick them. Hold a small bucket of strong soapy water under the bug and tap or shake the critter into it. You will need to be diligent about this, visiting your plants as often as possible and inspecting carefully. Several times each day is best. You may find that children (who often find Japanese Beetles ‘pretty’) can be persuaded to assist with this if suitable reward is offered.

Another organic method is to cover your plants with a physical barrier such as fine-mesh screening fabric. Light-weight spun bond coverings (aka ‘floating row cover’ or ‘seed covering’) are available for this purpose at your favorite Garden Center (Linder’s!). While this method is not practical for very large plants such as trees, it can work well for a favorite rose or specific veggies. Be sure whatever covering you use is ’breathable’ to allow moisture and as much light as possible to pass through. Remove the covering as soon as Beetle season is over. Do NOT use plastic.

One of the most efficient methods of reducing Japanese Beetle numbers is to treat your lawn for grubs. There are both organic and chemical products available. Although killing grubs under the lawn this summer will not affect the number of beetles this year, their numbers next year may be reduced.

‘Milky Spore’ is a biological agent that is specific to Japanese Beetle grubs; it does not harm earthworms, other insects such as bees and butterflies, pets, humans or other animals. It does need one or more applications annually for three to five years to adequately inoculate your lawn, but once appropriate levels are in place, no further treatment is needed for as much as 10 years. While Milky Spore may be a bit less effective here than in southern states due to our shorter season, grubs are less likely to thrive where Milky Spore is present.

A granular insecticide can be applied to lawns to kill Japanese Beetle grubs. The annual version is a good preventative to have in place when the female Japanese Beetles are laying eggs in the lawn in mid-summer. Baby grubs are most vulnerable in late summer and early fall while they are still small and near the soil surface. You will also find a short-term grub killer to use when grubs are visible in large numbers just under the lawn surface.

There are several insecticides available to use for adult Japanese Beetles. A liquid systemic such as Imidachloprid (Merit) absorbed through plant roots can be useful for very large plants and trees. Topical insecticides can be sprayed directly on plants and range from organic insecticidal soaps and Neem products to permethrin and contact insecticides. If you are spraying edible plants, be sure the product is labeled for those plants. Be aware, however, that these are ‘broad-spectrum’ insecticides that affect many kind of insects, including bees and butterflies, so use them cautiously, applying only when and where needed. Keep these insecticides away from ponds and streams as well.

Traps for adult beetles have become controversial: some professionals feel they don’t work. In fact, the problem is that they work too well, sometimes attracting more beetles than are captured. On the other hand, trapped beetles are not eating your roses or laying eggs under your lawn to produce next year’s generation of pests, and are easily dispatched. If you choose to use traps, be sure to place them well away from whatever plants you are trying to protect.

Whether and how intensely you choose to do battle with Japanese Beetles is up to you. There are likely to be some in your garden no matter what you decide; they are able to fly in from your neighbor’s garden or the golf fairways across the street. Your plants are likely to survive one way or the other. However, such destructive pests need not be encouraged! The knowledgeable staff at Linder’s Garden Center can help!

Posted on June 30, 2012

Keeping a Fresh Cut Christmas Tree Fresh

Make a Fresh Cut: If a cut has not been made at the store, make a fresh cut at the base of the tree to remove at least one inch of the trunk. This removes the sap plug that has formed and allows the tree start taking up water.

Put the Tree in Water: After the cut has been made, put the tree in a stand (or bucket) of water as soon as possible, within one hour. This prevents the tree from forming another sap plug. If the tree trunk is not put in water within one hour, another fresh cut will need to be made. The stand should be able to hold one to two gallons of water. Consider using a preservative such as Prolong in the water to extend the life and needle retention of your tree.

Keep the Tree Away From Heat: Keep your tree away from sources of heat such as radiators, heating vents and fireplaces. Heat dries out the tree prematurely.

Check the Level of the Water Daily: Check the level of the water frequently, at least daily, to ensure that the stand does not run dry. A tree may absorb as much as a gallon of water a day, especially during the first few days. Do not allow the stand to run out of water. If the stand runs dry, the tree will form another sap plug and a new cut will need to be made. (See first paragraph)

Keep Electrical Lights and Decorations in Good Working Order: Check your lights and electrical cords to be sure that they are in good condition. Discard any lights or electrical cords that are worn out or frayed. Turn off lights before going to bed or leaving the house.

Posted on November 20, 2012

Keeping Your Holiday Greens Fresh

One of the delights of the Holiday season is the greenery. Symbolically those fresh fragrant boughs of cedar, pine and spruce remind us that life is resilient and that spring will return in just a few short weeks

The wide selection of greens available will provide a wonderful variety of color, fragrance and texture for all your decorating needs. Whether filling your window boxes, adding an inviting pot to your front step, or adorning your mantle, there is no better way to welcome your friends and family to your home than with an abundance of fragrant evergreen boughs. Accent with berried stems, colored branches, fanciful ribbon bows, interesting pods or any themed décor for a festive treat.

Keep those arrangements and pots fresh following these simple hints:

Choose green boughs that are supple and soft. Needles should not fall easily when the boughs are handled or patted lightly.

To help cut greens last, make a fresh cut at the base of the stem, submerge in tepid water for an hour or two, and then move to a cool location such as an unheated garage overnight before arranging in floral foam indoors or installing in a pot outside.

Consider applying an anti-desiccant to reduce moisture loss. Follow package directions.

Keep cut evergreens cool and moist as much as possible. Outdoor pots and garland can be watered or misted as long as temperatures are above freezing. Dry, indoor heat reduces the life of evergreen boughs so if you have arranged them in foam, check daily. Add water and mist as needed.

Keep your evergreens away from heat sources such as furnace vents. Use extra caution with candles. Consider using battery operated candles in your arrangements. Many realistic LED-lighted candles are available now. Their pleasing flame-like flicker is cooler and safer than open flame. Any candle should be enclosed in a holder and arranged so that the flame is held well away from the greens. NEVER leave an open flame unattended!

Enjoy!

Posted on November 26, 2012

Late Fall Lawn Care

Continue to water lawns deeply once a week if there is no rain.
Keep mowing as long as the grass continues to grow. Set the mower height so cut grass is between 2 ½” and 3 ½”; mow again when grass is 4” tall. Taller grass results in deeper roots that are more drought tolerant and can better resist the winter cold.
Fall is the most important time to feed your lawn. Most good fall fertilizers are slow-acting, made to react to temperature and moisture. They help the lawn recover from the summer’s heat and drought, and remain in the soil to be available for that great green-up first thing in the spring.
There is still time to apply herbicides to kill perennial weeds such as Dandelion, Plantain and Creeping Charlie in your lawn. Broad leaved weeds are more easily killed as they withdraw nutrients from their leaves for the winter. The grass will continue to root into any bare spots for several weeks yet.
Don’t let piles of whole leaves remain on the lawn. These tend to mat together and smother grass, resulting in a thin, weedy lawn in the spring. Instead, mulch leaves into tiny pieces and let them remain scattered on the lawn as winter food or rake and add to your compost. The compost can be returned to the lawn as a top dressing in the spring.
If your lawn is long established and compacted, you may want to aerate now. Your lawn will recover from this process best in the early fall. Cut the lawn short before aerating. Wait until early June to dethatch.
Core aeration removes finger sized plugs from the lawn, opening up the soil. Be sure the machine you use removes a plug that is deep enough to go entirely through the thatch layer and several inches into the soil. This process will reduce compaction and improve drainage. Leave the plugs to decompose into the lawn.

With just a little care, you can enjoy that lush green lawn this fall and next spring too!

Posted on October 1, 2012

Late Summer Water Gardening

The days are still warm, but the nights are getting cooler. Autumn is just around the corner, however, there is still enough summer left to enjoy the outdoors and our gardens. Water gardens are still blooming, and some plants enjoy the cooler temperatures which make their colors more intense. If temperatures remain in the 70 and 80’s, many plants will continue to bloom. Some late/long summer blooming pond plants are:

Late/Long Season Blooming Plants	Plants with Leaf Color
Arrowhead, White Flowered	Cannas
Aztec Arrowhead	Cardinal Flower
Lotus	Chameleon Plant/Houttuynia
Cannas	Creeping Jenny
Cardinal Flower	Melon Sword
Marsh Marigold	Red Stemmed Thalia
Monkey Flower	Taros
Sensitive Plants	Tropical Water Lilies
Thalia	Variegated Sweetflag
Water Hibiscus	Yellow Fringe/Snowflake
Water Hyacinth (If water temp ≥ 65ᵒ)	Zebra Rush
Water Lilies
Yellow Fringe/Snowflake

It’s all about the water temperature:

Towards late September, as the day and night temperature get cooler, water temperature will also begin to decline. Water temperature will indicate when it is time to change your water garden routine.

Here are a few items to keep in mind for fall:

You will want to stop fertilizing your pond plants when the water temperature drops below 60 degrees so that your plants can begin to prepare for dormancy.
You can continue feeding your fish Summer/Warm Water food as long as the water temp stays above 65 degrees. When water temperatures remain below 65 degrees, you will need to switch over to an Autumn/Cold Water fish food. Autumn or Cold Water fish food is higher in carbohydrates and lower in protein which is easier for the fish to digest in cooler water, and it reduces the amount of ammonia by product released by fish.
As the water temperature drops, so does the biological efficiency of your filter and beneficial bacteria. Ammonia spikes from dead plant material, fish waste, and uneaten fish food can be a problem for your fish as Warm Water Bacteria is less efficient in cold water. Cold Water Bacteria is formulated to work in cold water and is necessary for fish when water temps are at/below 50 degrees.

For now though, continue to enjoy your water garden into late summer/early fall. After the long hot days of summer, the cooler temperatures of autumn are a welcome relief.

In October, we will outline over-wintering your pond, pond plants and fish. See you then!!

Posted on August 21, 2012

Managing Algae in Your Pond

pond Helen Nash writes in her book, The Pond Doctor, “The most effective way to achieve an algae-free pond is by establishing what is commonly called ‘eco-balance,’ planting the appropriate number of plants necessary to use the water’s nutrients to the exclusion of the lower algae life-forms.” Since algae needs sunlight, carbon dioxide and dissolved minerals to exist, anything that deprives algae of these ingredients will help minimize algae growth.

Now that we are coming into the longer, hotter days of summer, managing algae does not need to be difficult if you keep these suggestions in mind:

It is recommended that 60% of the pond surface be covered with pond plants. Pond plants are beneficial in reducing the amount of sunlight that penetrates your pond. In addition, pond plants help filter and take up nutrients that algae feed on, thereby starving the algae. Some suggestions for pond plants to help you accomplish this are: Water Lilies, Water Hyacinth, Water Lettuce, Parrot Feather, Vallisneria and Anachris.

pond waterfall When you need to fertilize your water plants such as Water Lilies, use fertilizer that comes in a tablet form. Fertilizer tablets are inserted into the soil of the plant so you fertilize the plant, not your water. At Linder’s we carry several varieties of fertilizer in a tablet/pellet form.

Utilize the amazing power of natural Barley Straw. Barley Straw is all natural and inhibits the growth of algae. Using Barley Straw in your pond right from the beginning and continuing with its use can really help cut down on algae blooms. Linder’s carries Barley Straw in a variety of forms such as: Barley Straw Bales, Barley Straw Pellets, and enzymatic (liquid) version.

If you have fish, feed the fish only what they can consume in 5 minutes. Over-feeding your fish not only clouds the water, but any uneaten food is utilized by algae like fertilizer.

Continue to use your beneficial bacteria on a regular basis. This will help break down fish waste, uneaten fish food and plant debris which can contribute to algae.

If necessary, there are chemical methods of reducing algae growth in ponds. Chemicals can be targeted at specific types of algae forming in the pond. Some are more effective at reducing algae covering the rocks in your pond, others are better at cleaning up green water. We carry a wide range of pond products to assist you in keeping your pond clear and healthy.

Stop by and see us at Linder’s on Larpenteur Ave in St. Paul.

pond with bridge

Posted on June 10, 2012

Much Ado About Mulch

Are you wondering whether or not
to add mulch to your garden this year?

The short answer YES!! Mulch is one of the most beneficial things you can do for your garden.

cedar mulch Organic mulches are great insulators, protecting soil and plant roots from extremes of temperature and moisture levels. They revitalize soils as they break down over time, adding organic materials to feed the living organisms that help your plants grow. Soil texture is greatly improved which enhances drainage capability, especially important if you have clay or sandy soil. Mulches also suppress weed growth.

Mulch is best applied after the soil has warmed to growing temperatures of 60 degrees or more in late May or early June. Adding mulch earlier may delay soil warming which may mean that warm-season crops such as tomatoes, peppers, impatiens, zinnias or hardy hibiscus will be slow to begin active growth. It is not necessary to put down a liner of any kind under the mulch. Organic mulch applied directly on the soil allows the best exchange of air, water and microorganism activity. If you choose to use a liner, use something that allows air and water to penetrate, such as landscape fabric, two or three sheets of newspaper or a single layer of cardboard. Do not use plastic.

Mulch should be 2 to 4 inches deep. Be sure to leave a small ‘donut’ of bare earth around each plant; do not mound mulch tightly around plant crowns. This will minimize bugs, slugs and fungus using the mulch as a ‘highway’ up onto your plants. If you have had problems with slugs and snails in past years, try raking mulch out of the garden into a sunny area until the mulch and soil surface has dried in late spring. Using more coarsely textured mulch can help too.

Many materials can be used as mulch. Here are some of them:

Wood chips of many varieties, textures and colors are classic. They are usually available from local sources and are relatively inexpensive. Larger ‘chunkier’ textures take longer to break down and are not prone to washing or blowing away, but are less suitable for pathways since they can be hard to walk on. Smaller textures break down fairly quickly and are easy to till into the soil every year or two, making them especially useful in vegetable gardens. Be sure any wood mulch material is aged or composted a year or more. Fresh wood ‘steals’ nitrogen from the surrounding soil as it breaks down. If you must use fresh wood, add blood meal or other nitrogen rich amendment with the mulch to compensate.

Cocoa bean hulls have a lovely dark color and a fine texture that many gardeners find attractive in the garden. They break down in a season or less, adding humus to the soil. However, they must be shipped here, adding to cost and they can cause illness in dogs that might ingest them.

Straw is great mulch, especially for vegetable gardens and small fruit beds. A two to four inch layer is enough to shade the soil, conserve moisture at the root zone and deter weeds. It also helps keep produce cleaner, minimizing rain and soil splash. Straw decomposes slowly over the growing season, continually adding organic matter to garden beds. Be sure to keep it an inch or two from plant stems and crowns to deter bugs and allow good air circulation. At the end of the season, rake the remains away and add to the compost pile.

Good, high quality organic compost is the best mulch choice of all for vegetable and annual garden beds. It breaks down quickly, so add in thin layers several times during the season. Compost adds nutrition to the garden and revitalizes the soil, reducing the need for chemical fertilizers and improving soil texture. There is no need to dig it into the soil; just layer it at plant drip line. The earthworms and weather will get it where it needs to go as the season progresses.

Grass clippings can be used as mulch, especially in vegetable gardens. They break down quickly and are a good source of nitrogen. Be sure to allow them to dry a bit before you add them to your garden and use only in thin layers of an inch or less to avoid matting and molds. Be careful to use only organic clippings that have not been exposed to herbicides.

Various kinds of Rock are also sometimes used as mulch. These are long lasting, but add no nutrition to the soil and are difficult to cultivate as they settle into the soil. They are best used away from garden spaces.

The bottom line: It really doesn’t matter what kind of mulch you use, so long as you mulch your garden. Color, texture and type are entirely up to you!

Posted on May 31, 2012

Seeding Supply Guide

If you find yourself scratching your head when it comes time to pick out your seeding supplies, you are not alone. Here is a list of the basic seeding supplies, their purpose and how much you can expect to spend.

Seeds

Linder’s Garden Center carries a large variety of seeds including vegetables, fruits, herbs, annuals, perennials and even exotic seeds. Starting your own seeds allows you to pick exactly what you want to grow. Seed packets take up very little space compared to plants so it allows us to carry even more varieties than our live plants. If there is a plant you are dying to grow for 2012 or one that you usually have a hard time finding, try starting it from seed! Cost: $0.99-4.99

Containers

Trays are a great way to sow seeds because you can grow a lot of seeds in a small space. Each seed is planted into a cell which is filled with a seed starting mix. The cells are small and shallow compared to a pot so typically drainage is better and the seed will stay warmer allowing for faster germination. This method is the way professionals start their seeds. Cost: $1.99

Pots are available in many different types and sizes, including plastic pots, cow pots and biodegradable pots. These are all good options when sowing just a few seeds or if you have a large amount of space and a heat mat. Sowing seeds in pots will eliminate the need to transplant seedlings, although the media in the pot will tend to stay colder and wetter for a longer period which could prevent your seeds from germinating. Cost: $0.39-5.99

Seed Starting Mix

If you are going to pick on item that you don’t skimp on, it should be your seed starting mix. Think of it as your plants home and food source all rolled into one. The 2 main ingredients in a seed starting mix should be peat moss and vermiculite, no matter what brand you purchase, that is what you should look for. Notice that there is no soil in the mix! We recommend Fafard Seed Starting Mix or Country Cottage Seed Starter. Cost: $6.99-29.99

Add ons…

Vermiculite should be used when a seed needs to be lightly covered, which some seeds require for proper germination . Vermiculate covers the seeds while still allowing air and some light to come through. Cost: $7.99
Perlite will improve the aeration and drainage of your mixture while also holding onto excess moisture. This is a great product to add to the mix if you don’t have a lot of air movement where you are keeping your seedlings. It will encourage quicker germination and improved seedling growth. Cost: $6.99
Peat Moss helps loosen heavy soils, prevents compaction, improves aeration and improves drainage. This is the main ingredient of most seed starting mixtures. You shouldn't have to add any extra. Cost: $5.99

Domes

	Plastic domes are often used when starting seeds to keep the humidity level high. It’s the same concept as using a greenhouse! There are few different domes you can purchase, a favorite is the large dome that gives plants plenty of room to grow and stretch while other seeds are still germinating. Cost: $2.49-5.99

Heat Mats

Did you know that it is more important to heat a plants soil than it is to heat the air surrounding the leaves? Also, it’s a lot cheaper to purchase a heat mat than heating your entire house in order to keep the air around your seedlings warm. These mats are waterproof and are made to last! If you live in a particularly drafty house or if your motto is ‘Put on another sweatshirt’ then this may be the perfect thing for you. Cost: $21.99-29.99

Grow Lights

Grow lights are a great, inexpensive way to increase the success of your seedlings. Most regular light bulbs have a very small light spectrum in the yellow-orange wavelength. Unfortunately, our plants prefer a wider spectrum of red to blue. Grow lights come in a wide variety of color spectrums and wattages providing an equivalent to sunlight. Grow lights are a great option for anyone but especially for those lacking a bright sunny window! Cost: $8.99-29.99

Seeding Kits

There are many different kits available at the Garden Center. They are great for beginners or experts. Pick up one of the 'all in one' kits and your favorite seeds and you are ready to start growing! Cost: $3.99-19.99

Posted on January 23, 2013

Special Care of Impatiens- Preventing Downy Mildew

Impatiens have always been the most important shade plant used by the home gardener.

With this in mind, it’s not surprising to learn that a specific strain of downy mildew uses Impatiens as its major food source and host. Impatiens Downy Mildew has spread through various locations in the United States, positively identified two years ago in gardens located here in Minnesota. We have found that many gardeners have seen the effects of this disease in their garden and never knew it.

Facts about Downy Mildew…

This particular strain of the fungal disease only affects Impatiens walleriana which includes single and double impatiens
New Guinea Impatiens (Impatiens hawkerii) are highly tolerant to the disease
The disease thrives during the warm days and cool nights of spring and fall

Early Symptoms

Yellowing, mottling or speckled foliage
Faint gray lines visible on the surface of the foliage
Leaf edges curling downward
Whitish downy looking growth on undersides of leaves

Advanced Symptoms

Leaves and flowers drop off, leaving mostly stems with a few leaves at the tip
Short, stunted plants that have smaller leaves and produce fewer flowers
Stems eventually become soft and the plant will collapse

At Linder's, we recommend that if you have had issues with Impatiens in the past that you do not plant them in the same area or that you use an alternative shade plant. If you have had no problems in the past, there is a good chance you will have success with them again this year.

Pay close attention to where you purchase your impatiens. Some garden centers do not sell plants that are locally grown. If you purchase Impatiens that come from another part of the country, there is a greater risk of spreading the disease. At Linder’s, 100% of our Impatiens are grown in Lake Elmo, MN. All of our growers and employees at Linder’s are aware of this problem and are taking the necessary precautions to ensure that the plants we sell are clean and free of the disease.

Preventing the Disease…

Prevention is the only effective management strategy, there are no cures. Our growers take all of the necessary precautions to guarantee that our plants leave the greenhouses completely free of this disease. So what can you do?

Inspect the plants you are purchasing for any sign of the disease.
When planting your Impatiens – give them room to breathe. Avoid planting them in crowded masses to allow better air movement between plants.
It is a good practice to avoid watering at night – but this is crucial with Impatiens. Be sure to water in the morning so the leaves have plenty of time to dry off throughout the day.
Avoid getting the leaves wet when you water. Get your hose or watering can as close to the soil line as you can. The goal is to get all the water to the roots and away from the leaves.

If the Disease is spotted…

If you suspect that your Impatiens are infected with downy mildew take action immediately.

Be sure to remove the entire plant, including roots and any fallen debris.
Place the infected plants in a heavy-duty, sealed plastic bag and discard with the trash. Do not compost these plants!
Do not plant impatiens in the same location again. Scientists believe that Downy Mildew spores can survive in the soil for up to 5-years.
If you suspect your plant is diseased but are unsure, take a photo and show an expert. Please, do not bring the plant to a garden center for diagnosis.

The staff at Linder’s feels it is our responsibility to raise awareness about this issue so we can minimize potential problems in the future. When you purchase Impatiens from Linder’s, they will be free of the disease. However, we cannot guarantee that the plant will not become infected after it leaves our facility. If you have noticed some issues with your impatiens in the past, it is best to plant an alternative. There are a number of plants that can be used as alternatives to Impatiens…

Begonias
Coleus
New guinea impatiens
Torenia
Browallia

Because this strain of downy mildew is specific to Impatiens, any other plant variety will be safe to plant in your garden. If you are unable to plant Impatiens, take this opportunity to try something new!

Posted on May 14, 2013

Spring Care For Established Rose Bushes

rose bushes The care of rose bushes is not as difficult as everyone would be lead to believe. Roses will grow and bloom no matter what care is given, but there are a few simple steps that will get your plants off to a great start and give you a spectacular display all summer long. We've always said that it starts with your soil and roses are no exception. In general, they love a organic, nutrient-enriched garden loam, amended with large amounts of compost.

As spring nears for our established bushes, uncover your roses as the temperatures start to consistently warm up. Gently rake away the winter protection that you’ve piled up to protect the graft, or crown. The whole idea is to bring your plants out of dormancy with the natural cycle of Mother Nature. If left too long, buds will break and growth will elongate as the warmth of the covering material forces dormant canes to grow prematurely. Be sure to keep the protection near as the chance for inclement weather is still possible, you may need to temporarily cover them during threats of a hard frost. Check your roses for overwintering insects, disease, and overall health of the canes.

Begin fertilizing when buds begin to swell and leaf out. Roses will have used up the stored energy held in the root system from the long winters nap. If they are to remain healthy and vigorous an application of fertilizer will benefit and support further growth. It is better to provide a slow-released nutrition regime versus a temporary, water-soluble fertilizer. A recommended dose of an all purpose 10-10-10 or specialized rose food applied to soil will suffice but the American Rose Society has shared one of their secret recipes for the happiest and truly healthy roses...

1 cup bone meal or superphosphate (0-20-0)
1 cup cottonseed meal
1/2 cup blood meal
1/2 cup fish meal
1/2 cup epsom salts (magnesium sulphate)

This application is made to a single rose bush and spread about the drip line. When completed, gently rake the surface to incorporate fertilizer, and water well.

Posted on March 12, 2013

Spring Flowering Bulbs Are In And Ready To Be Planted!

Plant your spring flowering bulbs this fall for a beautiful show next spring!

How to Plant Fall Bulbs…

Location

Pick a spot that has full sun to partial shade. You can plant them almost anywhere. We recommend planting them in perennial beds, annual flower beds, among trees or along pathways. If you don’t have a yard, you can plant them in containers and enjoy a beautiful bloom in the winter time.
When planting, we recommend adding a bulb booster fertilizer or bone meal (organic) for extra nutrients.

Note: if you do not plant your bulbs right away, keep them in a cool, dark, dry area.

Spacing & Placement

To get the breath taking effect that bulbs can have, plant in groups.
For large bulbs, plant 3 or more together. For small bulbs, 10 or more in a group.
Space larger bulbs 5-6 inches apart and smaller bulbs 3-4 inches apart.
How deep should you plant your bulb? Measure the bulb diameter and then multiply by 3 for your planting depth in inches.
Always plant the bulb with the pointed tip facing up.
After planting, water your bulbs thoroughly.
When the ground is frozen, place 3-6 inches of hay over the bulbs to keep the ground frozen and to keep the bulbs from coming up to soon.

For Next Spring…

Remove the leaves after they have turned brown. Doing this too soon may prevent the bulb from blooming next year.
Remove the dead flowers and allow the foliage to die back naturally.
In the Fall, fertilize again with a bulb booster.

Most importantly… ENJOY!

Here are a few photos of our bulbs for sale at the Garden Center.

Posted on October 8, 2012

Terrariums

Terrariums have evolved into three differently planted systems.

The first is a “closed environment” that when planted, the top is closed shut, and the planter allowed to care for itself. The plants inside respire, giving off moisture, which condenses on the glass, beads up, and rolls down to remoisten the soil. And so the process continues.

In the second, any type of open glass or plastic jar can be used: from a Pickling jar to Brandy Snifter. When planted, there is minimal care, requiring some watering and a little pruning to keep the plants looking clean and compact.

The third is the dish garden, where a shallow container is used to plant a variety of plant material.

Historically, the first terrariums date back to ancient Greece. It wasn’t until the early 1800’s, in England, that what we have come to know as terrariums were planted to adorn our homes. They started as vessels to house specimens brought from all corners of the earth or tender plants that they had trouble growing. Today, terrariums are planted to represent woodland or desert themes, planted for whimsy, or to promote a hobby (such as fairy gardens or miniatures).

The choice in plant material can vary greatly, depending upon the type or theme of your miniature landscape. Typically the best choices are plants that like high humidity, have a slow rate of growth, and will tolerate standard household temperatures.

Where To Start

The choice of vessels can vary greatly. Any container can work as long as there is good light transmission. If you plan on using a closed container, use plants that can tolerate an environment that has very high humidity. The amount of care required will be greatly reduced but the chances for disease increase greatly. In most open containers, the plants will require a little more monitoring for their moisture needs.

Be sure to use a good quality soil mixture. The soil should allow for good drainage. Most of the containers used for terrariums will have no drainage holes for the excess water to drain off, so water maintenance is one of the most important limiting factors.

Supplies Needed

Container
Coarse gravel or rock
Charcoal
Linder’s Potting mix
Plants
Decorative moss to dress-up the soil surface, covering bare spots
Decorative pieces to finish off the theme (piece of driftwood, rock, fairy, use your imagination)
A mild fertilizer
Small tools for planting and raking (depending on the type of container used)

How To Construct

Start by adding a 1/4 to 1 inch layer of gravel or rock for water to drain into, depending upon your container choice. Top that with an equal layer of charcoal. The charcoal is used to minimize any odors that may generate because of excess water that may accumulate and stagnate. The next step is to add your potting mix. It is best to add enough to allow for planting.

When choosing your plants, typically smaller is better. We recommend using one for height, one that grows into a mound or small bush, and others to cover the soil (creeping or vine). You can also choose a small flowering plant for added color but this may need to be replaced once it has stopped blooming. We prefer to plant the pot and all to allow for easy replacement.

Gently dislodge your plant from its pot, you may have to tease the roots a little to spread them out. Dig a small hole in your soil and situate your plant to allow for best viewing, this may need some adjusting. Be sure to plant at the same depth as originally planted into the pot. Continue planting until your landscape is complete. Almost done!

Top dress with a decorative moss to cover the soil, add a rocky path, or some miniature figurines to complete your theme.

Gently water your terrarium, adding enough to moisten the soil. Clean the glass and you are done!

Place your terrarium where it will receive bright light but out of any direct sun. A few hours of morning sunlight would be best (an east window). Placed in direct sunlight for anything more than a couple of hours would allow for heat buildup inside your terrarium and cook your plants.

Posted on March 16, 2013

The Treeless Christmas Tree

This past weekend was the Lighting Ceremony at Linder’s. In case you've never been, it’s sort of a kick off to the Holiday Season. Over 150,000 Christmas lights cover the building and are turned on for the first time, Santa and his reindeer come, you get the idea. This was the first year Naturally Urban™ was a part of the event and we had a lot of fun preparing our mock apartment for the Holiday season and then showing it off. We had the idea for our ‘Treeless Christmas Tree’ a few weeks before the event and couldn't wait to bring it to life.

I stumbled upon this idea on Pinterest (surprise, surprise!) and knew that this is what we needed to do. It’s pretty unrealistic for anyone who lives in an apartment, condo, loft (or whatever you want to call it) to have a 6 foot Christmas tree in their apartment. There’s the whole complication of getting it into your car, then when you get home you have to figure out how to get it inside, and unless you are lucky enough to live on the first floor, you either have to drag up a flight of stairs or cram it into the elevator. Only to find out that having a live Christmas tree in a rental unit breaks all rules and codes, what a great way to damper that holiday spirit! Save it this year by going a new route!

Trust me, I know there are few things that can replace a real Christmas tree. But I think our Birch Branch Christmas Tree in combo with one of our Frasier Fir scented candles just might do the trick ;)

So here’s the original photo I was inspired by:

treeless tree

It’s elegant, it’s simple, and it doesn't use up any floor space! A triple-threat!

Here are the DIY instructions so you can recreate this, too:

DIY Birch Branch Christmas Tree.......................By Naturally Urban™

Step One: Measure your wall space. You’ll need to know how large your space is to determine how to trim each branch. Ours was about 3 ½ feet wide.

Step Two: Pick out your branches, you can gather them at home or purchase our bundles here.

Step Three: Carefully trim each branch. Start with the one that will go on the bottom, this will be your widest branch. We trimmed ours to just under 3 ½ feet. Trim the next branch a few inches shorter, and so on. You can eye ball this, but the amount you trim off will depend on how many layers you’ll want to have and how much room you have available on your wall.

treeless tree

Step Four: Once you have all of your branches trimmed to create the perfect Christmas tree shape, you get to decide how to hang it on your wall. If you prefer not to create a large number of holes in the wall in a Christmas tree shape, we recommend tying the branches together with twine.

Start by making a loop at what will be the top branch.

Continue tying twine one each side of each branch, then tie it to the branch that will hang underneath it. You’ll want to keep each side of the twine about the same length in order to make each branch as level as possible.

Step Five: After each branch is tied securely to one another, it’s ready to be hung. You might need help hanging it. Once it’s on the wall, take a step back to see if anything needs to be adjusted. Tie and re-tie until you achieve the desired look. Don’t worry if it’s not perfect, once it’s decorated you can hardly tell the difference. Even ours is a tad lop-sided!

Step Six: String the lights! We wanted to keep ours simple so we just zigzagged one string of lights on the tree.

Step Seven: Decorate with anything you have laying around, make it personal!

Happy Holidays, everyone!

Sincerely, Anna Linder
(Your Naturally Urban™ Expert)

Posted on November 20, 2012

Thrillers, Fillers, & Spillers

The rules have not changed much when it comes to planting combination pots, but gone are the days that you plant a menagerie of different plants in your planter. The rules are simple! Place a focal plant in the center, to give your planter a 360 degree view, or off to one side, when planter is placed up against a wall or fence. Then plant a bushy variety to fill in the space. And finally, around the outer edges, plant flowers that cascade and trail over the edge of the planter. This configuration is known as a Thriller, Filler, and Spiller.

	"Thrillers" are planted for height. Typically only one is needed. To keep with proper proportions, a thriller should end up finishing twice as high as the pot. It is planted to give stature, create a focal point and create a third layer to your container by growing upward.
	"Fillers" are planted to fill space and give a bushy appearance to your planter. If you decide to use different colors, the same plant type should be used for a more uniform appearance. Always try to plant in odd numbers for a more rounded look.
	"Spillers" provide the final component to a container garden. By cascading and trailing over the edge they provide the final layer. Just like the fillers, the trailing plants should be planted in odd numbers.

Here's just a few examples of combinations with Thrillers, Fillers, & Spillers:

Posted on May 6, 2013

Top Ten Tips for Creating Elegant Vase Arrangements with Flowers from your Garden

Choose a container that inspires you. Pair a purple lead glass vase from your Grandmother with her favorite peonies. Sunflowers in a lemonade pitcher are a classic favorite. Have an idea what blooms you’ll be working with before you choose a vessel. Larkspur, Gladiolas and Liatris are all stems with some serious height so a taller, narrower container will support the flowers without being top heavy.
Cut at the right time! Choose blooms that are showing color but are not open. Cutting when blooms are too mature will affect the longevity of your arrangement. Garden cuttings can last an average of 2 to 3 days. -HINT- Most garden flowers will perform better if they are cut in the morning before the sun has a chance to warm them.
Build a Base. Use foliage from trees, shrubs or even your indoor house plants to create a strong base for you arrangements. Hosta leaves are a great way to add texture and structure to your vase arrangements.
Cut Long. When removing blooms from the plants, cut low, just above the node of the stem to improve productivity for new blooms. You can always trim to the correct length once you’re ready to assemble your arrangement.
Remove all Foliage. It’s important to strip off all greens below the water line of your container. Leaves that are submerged will break down and harbor bacteria which will shorten the life of your flowers.
Assemble in Groupings. For maximum visual impact group like stems together. 3 roses set low and off to the side in a cluster offer a bigger impact than splitting them up.
More Water! Keep stems as short as possible. The shorter the distance that water has to travel to reach the head of the flower the longer they will last. Keep in mind that some flowers like Hydrangea, Peony and Tulips absorb fluid thru the base of the blooms as much or more that they do from the cut end of their stems. – HINT- if your Hydrangeas wilt, re-cut and submerge the entire flower in water. The bloom should re-hydrate in about an hour.
Accent your Arrangement. Use Birch branches stripped of their leaves for dramatic height. Raid the ribbon box for a fun texture accent or tuck a lace doily in the corner of an arrangement to add a whimsical feel. – HINT- do not use material that is irreplaceable or sentimental. Water or the flowers themselves could stain the fabrics.
Determine Your Style. An English Garden Style arrangement is lush and full of Roses, wispy Queen Anne's Lace and Scabiosa in an antique compote. While a more contemporary style can be mono chromatic or mono floral. A sleek silver vase with a gathering of simple Iris can add a pop of color to any urban living room.
Have Fun- Try, try and try again. The best part about using your garden flowers is that they are free and always at your fingertips! Experiment with all types of colors and styles and enjoy your hard work.

Posted on July 23, 2012

Water Gardening with Native Plants

Landscaping with native plants continues to gain popularity with Minnesotan gardeners not only because of their hardiness, but also their adaptability. The same holds true when using native plants for water gardening.

There are many native plants available that provide a wide range of benefits to the water garden. Besides being environmentally beneficial, native plants reduce maintenance time and costs because they are well suited for the location.

At Linder’s, we carry a variety of water plants native to the Midwest during the growing season. Below is a listing of native water plants that Linder’s carries and examples their attributes:

Midwest Native Plants:

Anachris	Duckweed	Marsh Marigold
Arrow Arum	Gray’s Sedge	Monkey Flower
Arrowhead, White Flowered	Hornwort	Pickerel Rush
Azolla	Horsetail	Rosy Bistort
Blue Flag Iris	Joe Pye Weed	Rush-Blunt
Bog Bean	Lizards Tail	Swamp Hibiscus
Bottle Gentian	Lotus-Lutea	Swamp Milkweed
Cardinal Flower	Mares Tail	Vallisneria
Cattails	Marsh Betony	Water (Calla) Arum
Cotton Grass	Marsh Fern	White Water Lily

Attributes:

Accent Plants:	Oxygenators:	Floating Plants:
Arrow Arum	Anachris	Azolla
Arrowhead, White Flowered	Hornwort	Duckweed
Blue Flag Iris	Mares Tail
Cardinal Flower	Vallisneria
Joe Pye Weed
Pickerel Rush	Fast Growing Plants:	Surface Covering Plants:
Swamp Hibiscus	Bogbean	Azolla
Swamp Milkweed	Cattail	Bogbean
		Duckweed
		Lotus - Lutea
		White Water Lily

Edge Covering:	Shade Tolerant:	Flowering Plants:
Bottle Gentian	Arrow Arum	Arrowhead, White Flowered
Horsetail (Scouring Rush)	Arrowhead (White Flowered)	Blue Flag Iris
Marsh Fern	Blue Flag Iris	Bottle Gentian
Marsh Marigold	Cardinal Flower	Cardinal Flower
Monkey Flower	Horsetail (Scouring Rush)	Joe Pye Weed
Water (Calla) Arum	Marsh Betony	Lotus-Lutea
	Marsh Marigold	Marsh Betony
	Horsetail	Marsh Marigold
	Lizards Tai	Monkey Flower
		Pickerel Rush
		Swamp Hibiscus
		Swamp Milkweed
		Water (Calla) Arum
		White Water Lily

Posted on August 13, 2012

Winterizing Your Pond

Early fall is the time to begin the process of winterizing your pond.
Efforts made in the fall will pay off in the spring when it is time to start up your pond.

Here are some important steps to consider before the leaves start falling and the temperatures begin to drop:

If your pond is of a manageable size, place netting over the pond to catch any leaves before they accumulate at the bottom of the pond (and begin to decompose). Decomposing leaves compromises water quality and fish health. Any excess leaves in the bottom of the pond should be removed using a net.
Before the first frost, remove all tender/tropical marginal plants. Tender (Zone 6+) marginal plants that have been left out during a hard freeze could die. Tender marginal plants can be brought indoors and treated like a houseplant, just keep the pot in a shallow basin with water and place by a sunny window. Borderline (Zone 5) marginals can remain in the pond until a killing frost takes them, and then clip off the foliage. Remove the plant from the pond and plant it in your garden and mulch heavily. Hardy (Zone 4) marginal plants can be left in the pond if they are planted, but cut back the dead foliage 2 inches above the water line. (For more complete information on winter care for marginal water plants and water lilies, refer to our article/handout “Wintering Water Plants”)
Anytime during the season, remove any rotting or dying leaves on the plants. By doing this, you will help improve the quality and clarity of your pond water.
A total cleaning of the pond is not recommended in the fall as fish and plants are adapting to the change of season (dormancy). You can do a partial water change (up to 50%). This should be done before the water temperature drops below 50 degrees. Be sure to use dechlorinator when adding water back into the pond.
It is important to stop feeding the fish once the water temperature drops below 50 degrees. When the water temperature is below 50, the fish will go into a reduced metabolic state and will live off reserved body fat.
If fish are to be left in the pond for winter, they should have areas such as ledges, rocks, or deep spots where they can hide from predators. The depth of the pond (in the deepest area) should be no less than 3 feet. This will allow an area where the fish can “hibernate” during the winter below where the ice freezes solid.
If fish are to be left in the pond, once ice starts forming on top of the pond, you will need to keep a hole open on the ice (either by using a “de-icer” with aerator or pond heater.) This is necessary to allow oxygen/gas exchange for the fish during the winter. If the surface of the water freezes over, do not hit or attempt to use a heavy object to break the ice. Instead, place a pot of boiling water on the surface to slowly melt the ice. If there is not an opening in the ice, harmful gasses will build up and kill the fish.
If you bring your fish indoors, you can use a large tank or aquarium to hold your fish. Use the water from the pond to reduce the potential shock from water extremes (e.g. significant differences in temperatures, pH, hardness, etc.) Quick changes in water characteristics can kill fish.
If the water temperature in the indoor tank is above 50 degrees, you can feed your fish. Be careful not to over feed your fish. Feed them only what they will consume in 5 minutes. Continue filtering your water to maintain good water quality. Periodically test the water for ammonia spikes or pH changes.
Once the fish and plants are taken out of the outdoor pond, it is important to remove the pump and any other electrical features such as submersible lighting. Bring the pump and other electrical features indoors. Always keep the pump submerged by placing the pump in a bucket of clean water and store it indoors. You can store the bucket with (the pump) in the garage as long as you do not allow it to freeze solid. If you disconnect the pond filter for winter, drain it to prevent ice damage.
If you are planning on running the pump in the outdoor pond during the winter, you should raise it within a foot of the pond’s surface. This will keep water moving which helps to keep the surface from freezing over. Be sure to monitor the pump’s functioning closely; do not let the pump freeze up or accidentally pump all the water out of the pond, forming an ice mound on the surface.

By incorporating these steps into your fall pond maintenance,
your spring start up will go more smoothly and successfully.

Posted on October 25, 2012

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Don’t let limited space prevent you from enjoying water gardening! Even those with apartments can have a small water garden in a container.

Stop by Linder’s Garden Center for help to create your own water garden possibilities!

What you’ll need…

Step 1. Glue the fabric onto the pot.

Step 2. Glue the fabric to the top & bottom of the pot.

Step 3. Apply the outer coat

Step 4. Let it dry!

There are a few things you’ll need to get started…

Now that you have everything you need, it’s time to put it all together.

Taking Care of your Terrarium

There are a few things you’ll need to get started…

Now that you have everything you need, it’s time to put it all together.

Taking Care of your Terrarium

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Don’t let limited space prevent you from enjoying water gardening!
Even those with apartments can have a small water garden in a container.

Stop by Linder’s Garden Center for help
to create your own water garden possibilities!